HomeClimbingHeart Slab

Heart Slab at Campfire Crag: A Direct Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
slab
trad
desert
single-pitch
bolted-anchor
sunny-face
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Heart Slab
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Heart Slab carves a focused single pitch of slab traditionals on Campfire Crag’s sunny south face. A short, precise climb demanding steady footwork and standard trad protection, it offers a perfect introduction to slab climbing in Joshua Tree’s iconic desert setting."

Heart Slab at Campfire Crag: A Direct Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Heart Slab presents a straightforward yet engaging climbing experience along the sun-drenched south face of Campfire Crag, located within the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch trad route stretches roughly 80 feet and demands a blend of confident slab technique and solid gear placement. Starting with an approach scramble through the rocky gully just left and behind campsite 42, climbers quickly find themselves on the crag’s main south face. The route moves diagonally upward and left, intersecting two fixed bolts that mark a key traverse across the face’s right end of a horizontal break. From this point, the line shifts upward past three additional bolts, offering protection that complements the natural cracks and flakes where rack sizes up to 2.5 inches are essential.

The rock’s coarse texture provides reliable friction, though the slab’s angle requires careful footwork and steady balance. As you ascend, the desert air hums with the energy of Joshua Tree’s open wilderness; the sun casts sharp shadows across the granite, and the scent of creosote drifts up from below. Belayers will appreciate the convenience of a solid gear anchor at the top, where a combination of bolts and cams secure your descent. Scrambling or walking off from here is straightforward, making Heart Slab an appealing climb for those seeking a quick, engaging trad line without the complexity of multi-pitch routes.

For those planning a visit, timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon ensures cooler temperatures and reduced glare on the slab. Footwear with sticky rubber is crucial to maintain traction, and a well-rounded rack equipped to handle small to medium cams will cover all protection needs. While the fixed bolts enhance safety, the core of the climb lies in precise, deliberate movements on slab terrain that gives this route its distinct character. Its accessible location near the Indian Cove Campground adds a practical convenience, allowing climbers to combine day climbs with camping under Joshua Tree’s famously clear night sky.

Heart Slab is a reminder that some of the best climbs are those that balance simplicity with technical skill, set within an iconic landscape that invites both focus and reflection. Whether you’re refining your slab prowess or seeking a memorable climb close to camp, this route delivers straightforward adventure without unnecessary frills, leaving plenty of room to connect with the rock and environment.

Climber Safety

While the fixed bolts provide reassurance, the route’s slab nature means falls can result in sliding rather than free hanging—practice controlled, precise movement. Approach terrain involves some loose rock; stay vigilant during the scramble to the base.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start the approach by scrambling up the gully just left and behind campsite 42.

Climb in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and harsh sun glare.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to maximize traction on the slab surface.

Bring a full standard rack, including cams up to 2.5 inches, for optimal protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels approachable yet demands solid technique on slab terrain. The presence of bolts softens the risk but doesn't diminish the need for confident footwork and balance. Climbers familiar with Joshua Tree’s granite slabs will find this grade fair, with protection that boosts comfort but still requires focus.

Gear Requirements

Five 3/8-inch fixed bolts are spaced along the route, but bringing a trad rack up to 2.5 inches is essential for placements and the anchor. Expect to place gear actively, especially near the top where cams secure the belay.

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Tags

slab
trad
desert
single-pitch
bolted-anchor
sunny-face