HomeClimbingHeart Line

Heart Line: A Long, Strategic Climb Through Alberta’s Rugged Heart Creek

Canmore, Canada
slab climbing
multi-pitch
aid climbing
long route
Canadian Rockies
scrambling
rappel descent
sport climbing
Length: 3500 ft
Type: Sport, Aid
Stars
Pitches
17
Location
Heart Line
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Heart Line offers a rewarding 17-pitch ascent full of varied climbing on solid slabs, arêtes, and technical corners in Alberta’s Bow Valley. This route blends sport and aid climbs with scrambling sections, providing climbers a long and engaging alpine experience with spectacular summit views."

Heart Line: A Long, Strategic Climb Through Alberta’s Rugged Heart Creek

Heart Line stretches a demanding 3500 feet along Heart Creek in Alberta’s Bow Valley, offering climbers a thorough outing that marries technical sport and aid climbing with striking mountain terrain. Situated on the western edge of the Canadian Rockies, this 17-pitch route presents a varied sequence of slabs, arêtes, corners, and gullies, each pitch carefully carved into the pale slabs and rocky ridges that define this area. The climb starts with a slabby approach immediately left of a streak running with water, requiring steady footwork and route-reading on moderate but sustained terrain. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts—sharp edges yield to smoother slabs and jagged corners, inviting a mix of climbing tactics and protection strategies. Thorough bolt protection guides sections, yet the aid pitch pushes your gear placement skills, demanding careful attention and calm execution.

Above the technical pitches, the route opens into scrambling terrain peppered with vegetation and wildlife trails. Here, you ascend through airy ridges and across meadows of kinnikinik, a grounding breath of open space after vertical climbing. The summit rewards with stunning panoramas of the Bow Valley—folded mountains framing river corridors and dense forests below. It’s a place that encourages a slow pause to drink in the expansive views earned only after hours of concentrated effort.

Heart Line offers flexibility for climbers seeking variation in their adventure. The first six pitches provide a shorter yet still satisfying option, topping out at moderate 5.6 difficulty, and many opt to descend via a series of well-established rappel stations descending Heart Slabs. For those tackling the entire climb, preparation is key: a range of quickdraws, a 60-meter rope, and aid gear are essential, especially to negotiate the steep, bolt-protected segments. Protective footwear suitable for varied rock and some scrambling aids with confidence for the exposed Class 3 and 4 sections beyond the final pitches.

Approaching Heart Line involves a moderately steep trail that winds through mixed forest before hitting the base of the climb. The path is rough in places with loose rock underfoot—good trail shoes and trekking poles may ease this approach. Timing your ascent to avoid afternoon sun brings cooler, more comfortable conditions and enhances rock friction during the slab climbing. Early summer through early fall offers the most stable weather window, but always be ready for sudden changes common in the Rockies.

The descent options include a straightforward walk off via the well-marked Heart Mountain loop trail, weaving back through alpine ridges and open meadowland, or a multi-pitch rappel sequence down the route itself. Rappelling requires careful planning and rope management, especially on the longer pitches; a single 60-meter rope suffices, but knowledge of the intricate rappel stations will save time and stress.

With six votes giving it an average rating of 2.3 stars, Heart Line’s appeal may rest less in its popularity and more in its dedication to those who value measured commitment over flash. This climb is a precise blend of sustained moderate difficulty and diverse terrain, rewarding climbers who appreciate a mountain experience that demands endurance, technical savvy, and a keen eye for route finding. It stands as a solid option for those wanting to escape the crowds and tackle an extended journey carved into Alberta's rugged heartland.

Climber Safety

Loose scree on ledges above pitch 4 demands caution, particularly when transitioning from slabs to scrambling. The multi-pitch rappel descent requires precise knowledge of anchor locations and rope lengths to avoid hazards or missed stops.

Route Details

TypeSport, Aid
Pitches17
Length3500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slabs.

Wear sturdy shoes with good grip for the mix of slabs and scrambling.

Scout rappel anchors carefully; some require precise rope work.

Consider doing just the first six pitches if time or energy is limited.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 A0
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 A0, Heart Line offers moderate difficulty but includes a critical aid pitch (14) that adds complexity and pushes technical skill beyond pure free climbing. The grade feels accurate for experienced climbers, with a few crux sequences on thin slab and corner climbing. Compared to other Bow Valley climbs, it leans towards endurance and route-finding rather than extreme technical moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring 12 quickdraws—including 2 slings of 60cm length—and aiders to tackle the bolt-protected pitches and the key aid section on pitch 14. A 60-meter rope covers all pitches and rappel stations for the descent.

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Tags

slab climbing
multi-pitch
aid climbing
long route
Canadian Rockies
scrambling
rappel descent
sport climbing