HomeClimbingHeadwall

Headwall at Big Rock: A Bold Traditional Climb in Inland Empire

Big Bear Lake, California United States
thin crack
bolted start
low-angle slab
single pitch
easy approach
rappel descent
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Headwall
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Headwall is a brief but intense climb on Big Rock’s far right side, combining delicate, technical moves with a safer bolted finish. Ideal for climbers eager to test thin-crack skills before relaxing into easier slab sections."

Headwall at Big Rock: A Bold Traditional Climb in Inland Empire

Headwall stands as a sharp reminder of the raw challenge that climbing can offer, located on the far right edge of Big Rock in California’s Inland Empire. Despite its modest length of 60 feet and a single pitch, this climb demands focused attention from the first cruxy moves on its vertical start. As you step onto the rock, the face presents delicate, thin holds that test finger strength and body tension, making those opening moves feel like a calculated negotiation with the wall. A few bolts provide confident protection through this initial challenge, offering an uneasy but welcome embrace as you push upward. Once past the well-guarded crux, the route eases into a low-angle slab peppered with flakes that invite secure hand and footholds, giving the climber a chance to regain composure and appreciate Big Rock’s sunlit facade.

Though classified more as a traditional climb, Headwall benefits from three bolts and a sturdy bolted anchor for descent—a hybrid setup that blends safety with a need for traditional gear awareness. The rock’s texture demands precision and footwork, especially in that opening sequence where the margin for error feels slim. The exposure here is minimal, but the climb rewards careful reading of the rock with smooth, confident movement up easier terrain.

Approaching Big Rock, climbers will find this route as the rightmost bolted line, approximately ten feet from the similarly named False Headwall. The surrounding area sits at about 3,300 feet elevation, presenting a broad landscape often warmed by inland California’s clear skies. The approach trail is straightforward with moderate terrain, making the climb accessible without the burden of a long, exhausting trek.

Climbers aiming to tick this route from their to-do list should come equipped with a basic traditional rack and confidence in thin-crack climbing techniques. Timing your climb during the cooler hours of morning or late afternoon helps mitigate the sun’s intensity on the exposed slab sections. Given Headwall’s modest star rating, it’s not a long or complex climb but offers a meaningful challenge, perfect for those looking to sharpen finesse on delicate holds without committing to multi-pitch endurance.

Descent is by rappel from the bolted anchor, a straightforward but essential step to plan ahead for. Safety always comes first; be sure to double-check your setup and ensure the rope runs smoothly over the rock to avoid abrasion. Headwall’s inviting challenge lies in its measured intensity—brief, focused, and rewarding—making it a worthy addition to any Inland Empire climbing day.

Climber Safety

Though well protected at the crux with bolts, the climb requires care on the slab section where fewer fixed protections exist. The bolted rappel anchor is reliable but confirm secure knots and device positioning to prevent rope friction on edges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach is short and straightforward; trailhead is accessible by well-marked paths.

Early morning or late afternoon climbs help avoid harsh direct sun on the slab.

Use sticky rubber shoes to maximize traction on delicate feet placements.

Double-check bolted anchor rigorously before rappelling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating is appropriate here, with the crux focused on the delicate, technical start where precise body positioning is key. Beyond the crux, the climb softens considerably, so this feels like a solid introduction to sustained thin crack climbing without overbearing difficulty. For climbers familiar with other Inland Empire routes, Headwall is a focused challenge rather than an endurance test.

Gear Requirements

Requires a moderate trad rack complemented by three bolts and a bolted anchor for safety. The protection protects the tricky start, after which you rely on natural holds on slab.

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Tags

thin crack
bolted start
low-angle slab
single pitch
easy approach
rappel descent