Head Games stands out as a thoughtfully balanced single-pitch route that offers climbers a taste of both sport and traditional climbing on The Headstone’s rugged face. Situated within the Devil’s Head area near South Platte, Colorado, this 150-foot climb is an invitation to blend technical precision with confident gear placement, rewarding those who come prepared with a full rack. From the moment you step onto the lower slab, the route challenges you with a cruxy 5.8 section anchored by bolts, demanding smooth footwork and steady movement. The rock underfoot here is slick and exposed, yet the line of bolts provides reassurance through this deceptively tricky start.

After surmounting the initial slab, the climb shifts character. You swap quickdraws for camming devices as you enter a vertical crack that tests your ability to read and place traditional gear securely. This crack eventually leads to a large roof, the route’s defining feature. Traversing left beneath this overhang requires deliberate moves and trust in your gear placements—bolts punctuate the roof traverse, adding safety but not removing the necessity for focused technique. Pulling over the roof feels like a moment of earned triumph, where body tension and route reading come together seamlessly.

The last section guides you through a clean dihedral, encouraging steady rhythm and cautious optimism as you approach the top anchor. The descent back down from this bolted anchor involves a straightforward rappel, making the climb a practical choice for those wanting to combine sport’s security with trad’s complexity.

The Head Games route is well-suited for climbers comfortable at 5.8 who appreciate a route that engages both protection styles without overwhelming complexity. The granite wall holds the sounds of the forest nearby—whispering pine needles stirred by wind and the distant calls of wildlife—adding a tactile sense of place to the physical challenge. It's a stellar route to include when visiting the area, especially paired with the nearby Chickenhead route, another classic 5.8 trad climb that complements Head Games with its own unique features.

Planning your ascent here means preparing for a varied gear setup: bolts anchor the slab and roof, but a solid rack of nuts and cams—especially smaller sizes around 0.3 to 0.4—is essential to confidently protect the crack section. Footwear with sticky rubber and attentive foot placement will help manage the slab’s slickness early on. Timing your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon allows you to benefit from the wall’s exposure to sunlight while avoiding the late-day shadows that can chill the rock and reduce friction.

The approach to The Headstone is accessible yet quiet, offering a short hike through pine-strewn slopes that gently climb toward the climbing area. GPS coordinates lock you into a region known for reliable rock and a refreshing wilderness experience, but always watch for loose rock near the start. With moderate traffic, this route can offer a peaceful window to focus on technique, strategy, and the satisfying hand-to-foot connection with the wall.

For those ready to combine the thrill of sport bolts with the satisfying challenge of gear placements—and who want a route that tests endurance, movement, and mental composure in equal measure—Head Games delivers an adventure worth your gear and effort. Whether you’re coming from Denver or farther afield, this is a highlight of the Devil’s Head climbing scene, framed by Colorado’s cool mountain air and the promise of a climb well done.