"He Who Double-crosses Me offers a concise, engaging 50-foot sport climb on the edge of Santa Barbara’s Crag Full of Dynamite. With reliable bolting and a punchy roof section, this single pitch is an ideal challenge for those craving straightforward climbing with a moment of technical interest."
On the sun-drenched cliffs of Santa Barbara’s Central Coast lies a climb that invites both seasoned climbers and adventurous newcomers to test their mettle without overwhelming distance or commitment. He Who Double-crosses Me stands firmly on the far right edge of Crag Full of Dynamite, offering an engaging 50-foot pitch that balances straightforward sport climbing with moments that require a bit of attention. From the moment your fingers find the first bolt, the vertical face stretches upward, leading you to navigate a compact, slightly overhanging roof that adds a playful twist to an otherwise direct line.
This route’s four bolt protection provides reliable security, allowing climbers to focus on smooth movement rather than hardware hunting. The two-bolt anchor at the top grants a secure spot for belaying or rappelling—a crucial detail to keep the descent straightforward and safe. The cliff itself is carved from solid rock with moderate texture, providing grip even as the route hums along at a accessible 5.8 grade, attracting those wanting a climb that feels lively without pushing into taxing territory.
Situated roughly 34.5 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, the climb enjoys the temperate weather of Southern California, where coastal breezes often temper the heat on clear days. Approaching the crag involves a brief hike through dusty scrub and low chaparral, a gentle reminder that climbing here is not isolated but deeply tied to its rugged, sunlit surroundings. The rock does not challenge with technical complexity but wears its character through the roof section, where timing and body positioning earn the reward of moving onward with efficient grace.
For climbers preparing to tackle He Who Double-crosses Me, lightweight sport rack, quickdraws, and sturdy footwear are essentials to maximize comfort and efficiency. Early morning or late afternoon runs optimize shade and wind, preventing the midday sun from sapping your strength. Hydration remains key—even for a shorter route—since the arid landscape offers little natural water or shade.
Whether you are warming up for longer routes nearby or seeking a quick wilderness escape from urban life, this route presents an accessible yet satisfying challenge. This climb honors the straightforward joy of sport climbing, with solid protection, a single pitch that’s just the right length, and a memorable roof feature to punctuate the ascent. He Who Double-crosses Me invites you to engage with the rock and surroundings in a way that is as practical as it is rewarding.
While protection is steady, the roof section requires focused clipping and body positioning—missteps here can increase fall risk. The anchor is secure but double-check all gear before rappelling down the cliff, especially since approach footing can be loose in spots.
Begin early or late in the day to avoid the strongest sun and catch cooler temperatures.
Wear shoes with good edging ability to tackle the roof section comfortably.
Bring plenty of water—the approach and cliff see little shade or natural hydration spots.
Check your quickdraw placements before the roof to maintain smooth upward momentum.
Four bolts shield the route with a secure two-bolt anchor at the top, making quickdraws and a standard sport rack all you'll need to climb efficiently and confidently.
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