Rising steadily on the north-facing wall of Upper Spire, Harrison Direct Variation offers a climbing experience that tests both skill and judgment. Unlike the bolted challenges of the neighboring routes, this line artfully follows a natural crack system, blending blocky holds with occasional flakes that keep you alert. From the moment you start, the route demands precise footwork on a subtly angled face, with a low crux rated at 5.10a appearing in two distinct right-facing crack variations. This section requires confidence in crack climbing technique, as protection can be sparse, challenging leaders to place careful cams rather than relying on bolts.

As you ascend through the 70-foot pitch, the granite’s texture speaks quietly under your hands—the rough skin of the rock invites a firm grip, and the occasional loose flake whispers a need for caution. Despite its moderate length, the route’s character comes from its mix of straightforward 5.8 climbing interspersed with these key moments of tension, making it a rewarding choice for climbers looking to push their trad skills without the high-risk exposure of harder routes nearby.

The climb’s setting amplifies its appeal. Hanging in the shade of a large Jeffrey Pine, you’ll find welcome relief from the South-facing heat during warmer days. The north aspect keeps things cooler late into the afternoon, which can extend your comfortable climbing window when summer sun bears down on Highway 50’s corridor below. The surrounding area is rugged and quiet, with sweeping views that remind you why the Lake Tahoe region remains a hotspot for climbers with a taste for adventure.

Approaching Upper Spire is a straightforward affair but does require focus. Trailhead access involves a modest hike through mixed forest terrain, rounding to the base without technical scrambling. The route’s modest length means you can expect to move efficiently, yet the real challenge is reading the rock and placing protection with care—doubles of finger-sized cams and a #2 Camalot will serve you well here, with a single #3 camalot rounding out your rack for those wider sections. The varied protection landscape demands experience and composure, making this route better suited for climbers comfortable with some risk on natural protection.

Though equipment and conditions require respect, this climb avoids the crowded bolted pitches and offers a more organic connection to the rock. With about five votes rating it solidly at 2 stars, the community acknowledges its merit as a quieter alternative on Upper Spire, perfect for those who want to avoid the perils and crowds of the more popular climbs nearby.

Be prepared for a brief but technical single pitch that offers a satisfying blend of continuous movement and moments to pause in the shade for a breath. The rock’s north-facing orientation means cooler conditions that can preserve your grip late in the day, especially during late spring through early fall. Descending from the anchor is typically done by rap, and standard ropes can be doubled for a straightforward return to the base. Be mindful of some loose flakes common along the route and double-check placements throughout your ascent to maintain safety.

Harrison Direct Variation may not carry the fame of its bolted neighbor, but its natural lines and protective challenges make it a worthy undertaking for a confident leader looking to savor the granitic textures and rhythms of Upper Spire.