"Harold is a grounded 5.9 trad climb on Siberia Creek Tower’s southeast face, featuring sustained crack jams and a powerful lieback start. With solid placements and an accessible approach, this route offers a rewarding test of steady technique for trad climbers in the Big Bear area."
Harold unfolds on the southeast face of Siberia Creek Tower, a striking granite monolith rising within the rugged San Bernardino Mountains. This single-pitch 5.9 route offers a grounded but engaging test for climbers who value steady, hands-on cracks over flashy moves. The climb begins with a demanding lieback sequence, where your body will lean into the rock’s texture and find rhythm along the wide fissure daring you to commit. As you ascend, the route smooths into a sustained vertical crack with hand and wide-fist jams that require steady technique and patience. Unlike many of the more face-dominated climbs scattered across Big Bear’s granite outcrops, Harold leans heavily into traditional crack climbing, providing a tactile connection with the rock that is as gratifying as it is technical.
Protection is entirely trad—there are no bolts on this route—so bringing a solid rack focused on cams is essential. Expect to place large cams, like C4 #5s, for the initial wide lieback crack, which demands serious confidence to run out or protect. As the angle eases, smaller cams (C4 #2-4) handle the narrowing crack system, with smaller sizes topping out the pitch around a flake offering intermittent placements. The rock quality is good but climbers should remain mindful of the runouts and place gear carefully to avoid undue risk.
Approach is straightforward compared to more remote climbs deep in the San Bernardino massif. The route sits within the Big Bear Lake South area, accessible via a short trek from Siberia Creek Trailhead, winding through open pine stands and granite boulders that buzz with occasional mountain breeze hums. The walk-in demands moderate fitness—expect uneven terrain underfoot and about 20 minutes of light navigation from the parking area at approximately 34.21685 latitude, -116.9842 longitude.
Seasonal conditions are ideal during spring and fall when the mountain air cools but the rock remains warm, allowing for secure friction without the scorch of summer heat. The southeast aspect means early morning climbs bring shaded serenity, while afternoons can warm the granite sun-facing enough to aid finger jams. While the climb lacks a distinct crux, endurance is the true challenge here, with sustained crack climbing asking for controlled breathing and precise gear placement across the 50-foot vertical rise.
Descent is a simple scramble back down the approach trail, with no rappels needed, making this a convenient yet solid trad option for a half-day outing. The area’s quiet expanse offers a chance to enjoy the mounting scent of pine and the distant calls of birdlife, grounding the climber in a wild but accessible mountain landscape.
No fixed protection means you must be confident placing cams, especially the large pieces protecting the lieback section. Runouts can approach 10 feet early on, making careful gear decisions essential. The rock quality is solid but edges can be sharp, so approach with care and avoid slipping on loose scree near the base.
Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the southeast face.
Tape your hands for the abrasive granite when working the continuous crack jams.
Double-check your large cam placements before committing to the lieback section.
Approach via Siberia Creek Trailhead; it’s about a 20-minute hike over uneven dirt paths.
Bring a full trad rack emphasizing large cams like C4 #5s for the wide lieback crack, plus a selection of medium cams in the #2-4 range for the upper steeper crack sections. No bolts are present, so solid gear placements are critical to protect the sustained 10-foot runout at the base.
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