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Hanging Turd of Babylon at Peyote Cracks, Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, California United States
wide crack
desert trad
single pitch
Joshua Tree
moderate crack climbing
broad placements
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hanging Turd of Babylon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A single-pitch trad climb that challenges with its wide, gritty crack and desert exposure. Hanging Turd of Babylon offers a straightforward 5.9 experience laced with Joshua Tree’s raw rock character, perfect for those seeking a no-nonsense, desert trad adventure."

Hanging Turd of Babylon at Peyote Cracks, Joshua Tree

Hanging Turd of Babylon is a concise but memorable trad climb carved into the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park’s Peyote Cracks formation. This single-pitch, 40-foot route perches on the far right end of the East Face, where the rock’s rough texture and spacious crack offer a straightforward, gritty experience. The climb’s defining feature once included a distinctive chunk of rock lodged in the crack, a quirky remnant that lent the line its name and character. Though no longer present, the route retains its raw, unpolished personality—it’s a crack that demands respect for its imperfect cleanliness and the rock’s natural grit.

The ascent relies on wide trad protection, inviting climbers who enjoy placing gear in sizable cracks rather than relying on fixed hardware. The crack itself is broad and forgiving in terms of hand and finger holds but can feel awkward due to scattered debris and loose grit that tests your foot placements and patience. While the technical demands hover around a moderate 5.9 rating, the real challenge lies in navigating the uneven surface and managing your protection efficiently.

Peyote Cracks is part of The Outback, a more remote sector of Joshua Tree National Park, where desert winds sculpt the landscape and sunlight carves shadows across the rock as the day moves forward. The approach is straightforward with established trails guiding you to the base, but gearing up with sturdy footwear and ample water is essential, since temperatures can spike under the desert sun and trail terrain ranges from rocky to sandy patches.

Despite its modest length and single pitch, Hanging Turd of Babylon holds a rugged charm—perfect for climbers who value direct, no-frills trad climbing amid sweeping desert landscapes. The protection calls for traditional cams and nuts sized for wide cracks, and the gear placements require attention given the rock’s occasional flakiness. Climbers should arrive early to beat the heat and enjoy the morning light that illuminates the East Face beautifully.

Whether you’re brushing off your crack climbing skills or simply looking to experience a unique desert line, Hanging Turd of Babylon offers an experience that balances approachable climbing with the honesty of the natural rock and environment. The route’s modest star rating may underestimate the satisfaction found in managing the interplay between nature’s ruggedness and your climbing technique in this iconic Joshua Tree setting.

Climber Safety

Loose debris in the crack can complicate protection and footing—climbers must ensure solid placements and steady footwork. The desert environment also demands sun protection and hydration care.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the desert heat and benefit from softer morning light.

Bring extra water and wear sturdy shoes suited for mixed rocky and sandy terrain.

Inspect gear placements carefully due to occasional loose rock and dirt.

The trail is clear but can be uneven; allow for 20–30 minutes approach time.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9, this climb feels approachable but honest. The real test is in the wide crack’s occasional dirtiness and the need for confident gear placement, which can add subtle difficulty beyond the technical grade.

Gear Requirements

Wide trad gear is necessary to protect the broad crack effectively. Cams and nuts sized for large crack placements will work best. The rock’s inconsistent cleanliness means careful placement and testing of gear is essential.

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Tags

wide crack
desert trad
single pitch
Joshua Tree
moderate crack climbing
broad placements