Hanging Teeth stands as the rightmost pillar among Yosemite’s Five Open Books, offering a rugged and direct trad climbing experience that demands both patience and precision. Rising approximately 400 feet over four pitches, this route invites you into a substantial, mostly clean corner system where your hands and feet engage with the rock’s stubborn edges and shallow seams. The approach is straightforward, but the climb itself expects you to read the rock carefully — there is no straightforward crack to slot gear, especially on the first pitch where protection is limited and traditional rack sizes often fall short.

The opening pitch delivers the route’s defining challenge. You ascend a bold corner, its back wall presenting a bottoming, shallow crack filled with coarse deposits and too wide for most cams. This forces a committed climb relying heavily on layback techniques, with positive holds on the outer edges keeping you hooked in. Protection is sparse here — a slung tree and a weathered quarter-inch bolt guard your early progress, but beyond that, the route’s security depends on your ability to move confidently and meter your risks. Near the rooflet, you’ll find a subtle crack that lets you place a small piece before committing to an awkward, sustained move out right. This crux feels solid in effort but calls for careful judgment on gear.

Beyond the first pitch, the climb loosens its grip in both quality and beauty. The clean, engaging corner transitions into a series of less inspiring laybacks, culminating in sections where the rock feels fractured and loose. Despite this drop in rock quality, better gear opportunities emerge, allowing you to anchor more securely — just stay mindful of fragile holds and avoid dislodging debris onto your partners below. The final pitch climbs through a rotten section before topping out into the scree-filled funnel characteristic of the Five Open Books area.

Hanging Teeth carries the character of classic Yosemite trad: bold, technical, and raw. This isn’t a route to rush, nor a climb that spares you from thoughtful placement and route-finding. It rewards climbers who come prepared with larger cams (think #4 Camalot or bigger) and a readiness to embrace the gritty texture of a high-standard trad route where protection is sparse but the challenge is real.

Planning your ascent means starting early to avoid afternoon sun, as the route’s northeast-facing wall catches light mid-morning but benefits from shade later in the day, especially in warmer months. The approach is manageable but be prepared for careful footwork along loose scree at the top. Bringing layers and enough water is essential, particularly if you intend to move smoothly through Yosemite’s iconic, yet exposed, rock faces.

For climbers seeking an authentic Yosemite experience away from the more crowded, polished routes in the Valley, Hanging Teeth offers a gritty, thoughtful climb that combines the thrill of active gear placement with the pleasure of sustained corner climbing. Prepare well, move deliberately, and take in a less-traveled slice of Yosemite’s towering granite.