"Hanging Judge presents a focused 100-foot sport climb on Tanner Dome, blending mellow slab climbing with two distinct crux sections. Ideal for those seeking technical moves on solid granite within Colorado’s rugged Wet Mountains."
Hanging Judge stands as a focused test of technique and composure on Tanner Dome, located within Colorado’s dramatic volcanic landscapes of The Wet Mountains. This single-pitch sport climb, stretching 100 feet, opens with low-angle terrain that invites a steady rhythm along solid granite. You’ll begin with an easy 25-foot approach past weathered pockets and small flakes, moving alongside a compact juniper bush that quietly guards the route’s start. The rock here is comfortably angled, allowing you to warm up with straightforward moves that quickly prepare you for the challenges ahead.
Soon enough, the nature of the climb shifts as you reach a distinctly vertical corner around six feet tall. This section demands precision footwork and delicate body positioning; the placement of a bolt here marks the first crux. The hold quality above the bolt rewards careful movement, but the scarcity of foot placements means you need to trust your balance and fingertips. Clipping the bolt offers a moment of security before you execute the crux move, pulling smoothly over the edge with confidence.
Beyond this crux, the rock eases into a subtle slab that angles slightly left. Here, one more bolt marks a second technical challenge, reminiscent of 5.8 climbing—requiring a quick shift in body stance and a few well-judged smears and edges. The climb finishes by moving right and up to a two-bolt anchor, offering a comfortable stance to catch your breath and prepare for descent.
The descent is straightforward: a controlled rappel from the anchor ensures a safe return to the base without any tricky downclimbing. Throughout the route, protection is provided by four well-spaced bolts; while some sections between bolts are run out on easier rock, the crux moves themselves are solidly secured.
For climbers seeking a brief but technical challenge with a blend of low-angle and vertical moves, Hanging Judge delivers a compact dose of sport climbing in a serene mountain setting. The granite’s texture feels clean and inviting, while the sparse vegetation adds just enough character without obstructing your line. Given the short approach and moderate difficulty, it suits those looking for a focused session where technique and gear trust go hand in hand.
From a practical standpoint, bring shoes with a reliable edge for the vertical corner and slabs. Water and weather awareness are essential due to the exposure and limited shade on the wall. Early morning or late afternoon ascents can offer the best temperatures, as the route faces south-easterly aspects. Whether you’re refining crux tactics or enjoying a crisp day on Colorado’s quieter cliffs, Hanging Judge offers a balanced experience that rewards both concentration and finesse.
While bolting is reliable on the cruxes, some easier low-angle rock areas between bolts are run out. Be mindful of rock texture, which can be slick when wet or after rain. The two-bolt anchor is solid, but always back it up if rappelling with a partner. Seasonal weather changes can happen quickly, so plan for sudden temperature drops or wind exposure.
Climb early or late to avoid midday sun, as the wall faces southeast with limited shade.
Wear shoes with solid edging for the vertical corner and slabbed cruxes.
Carry enough water since the approach is short but exposed, and temperatures can rise quickly.
Double-check rappel gear; the descent is a single rappel from a two-bolt anchor.
The route features four bolts protecting two well-defined cruxes, plus a two-bolt anchor for rappelling. Expect some runout sections on easier terrain, so bring confidence and a clear strategy for spacing.
Upload your photos of Hanging Judge and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.