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Hanging Gardens: Squamish Trad Climbing Adventure

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
crack climbing
multi-pitch
offwidth
bolt protected crux
rappel descent
west coast
technical slab
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Hanging Gardens
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hanging Gardens invites climbers to explore a three-pitch route blending crack jams with slabby technical moves. Its quietly challenging middle pitch and varied terrain make it a rewarding test of trad skills in the heart of Squamish."

Hanging Gardens: Squamish Trad Climbing Adventure

Hanging Gardens offers a compelling mix of solid crack climbing and slabby technical moves that challenge climbers while rewarding them with a quiet slice of Squamish’s rugged character. Crafted carefully by Kris Wild, this three-pitch route invites you to test your hand-jamming skills and slab finesse under the watchful eyes of strategically placed bolts. From the first pitch’s airy left-leaning cracks to the exposed traverse and offwidth finale, each section unfolds with a tactile, hands-on experience that feels both approachable and demanding.

The approach is rooted in the iconic Shannon Falls region, where the forest’s damp earth and towering cedars funnel you toward the base of The Papoose. As you step onto the rock, the route greets you with an engaging combination of crack systems and cleanly scrubbed slabs. Pitch one eases you in with leftward crack movements and a settling mantle that leads to a no-hands rest—an invitation to feel the rock and set your rhythm. For shorter climbers, lock into the positive water dimple carefully as it can be a reach; it’s a small pocket of relief in an otherwise steadily climbing pitch.

The second pitch is the heart of Hanging Gardens and the reason many come here. A left-facing corner offers the pure joy of slotting Camalots into bomber hand jams, where each gear placement feels like a handshake with the rock. The crux is a delicate traverse just past a bolt, testing both footwork and reach. Climbers on the shorter side may find this move challenging, and aid can be a practical solution for those still building confidence. Beyond the traverse, a thinner crack beckons, demanding precise movement and concentration before reaching the anchors.

Pitch three begins with a low-angle dihedral that blends juggy relief with technical finger locks and tricky pinches. The tension builds as the route arcs upward past a bolt, through a mini-jug, and into a sustained offwidth that calls for a #4 Camalot or equivalent peace of wide gear. Alternatively, some bolts to the right offer a slightly different variation for those less comfortable with offwidths. The final moves transition back to face climbing, finishing at the top chains with a satisfying stretch in your arms and legs.

Descending can be achieved with three rappels using a 60-meter rope, but a walk-off option veers left from the anchors. This path is less traveled and may require navigating some loose, needle-strewn terrain, so climbers should assess conditions before opting out of rappelling. The area’s quieter profile means the route tends to gather pine needles and leaves, gradually filling the cracks if not climbed regularly. Consider this a route that thrives on attention—a public service climb that benefits from each party passing through.

Hanging Gardens stands as a genuine climbing experience in Squamish’s Frontside sector, blending straightforward crack climbing with moments that demand tactical gear placements and steady body positioning. This route isn’t just a climb; it’s a hands-on workshop where you sharpen your crack climbing skills amidst the natural rhythm of the Coast Mountains. Pack your standard trad rack with a focus on blue Metolius sizes through #4 Camalots, bring a 60-meter rope for the descent, and set out early to dodge potential afternoon moisture on the slabs. Whether you’re solid at 5.9 climbing or eyeing that 5.10c projection, this is a worthy piece of Squamish tradition to add to your climbing log.

Climber Safety

The route’s descent includes three rappels requiring a full 60-meter rope. The walk-off trail is less established and can be cluttered with loose debris and pine needles, so caution is advised if you opt to avoid rappelling. Additionally, some cracks accumulate pine needles and organic debris over time, reducing gear placements’ reliability if neglected.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach the route early to avoid damp slabs from afternoon moisture.

For shorter climbers, consider aiding the traverse on pitch two to conserve energy.

Bring a 60-meter rope to complete the three rappels safely off the route.

Be prepared for some pine needle buildup in cracks; frequent climbs help keep it clean.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10c, Hanging Gardens offers a solid challenge that feels appropriately rated with a technical crux on pitch two that adds a bit of punch without being overgraded. The varied climbing—ranging from 5.8 cracks to thin traverses and offwidth finishers—means this route tests different skill sets rather than sustained difficulty. Climbers comfortable in Squamish’s 5.10a–b range should find it a fair, enjoyable step up.

Gear Requirements

Recommended rack spans from small to large cams—blue Metolius sizes through #4 Camalots—with doubles in the .5 to #2 range proving useful. Chain anchors provide reliable top-outs.

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Tags

crack climbing
multi-pitch
offwidth
bolt protected crux
rappel descent
west coast
technical slab