"Handy Man delivers a solid 90-foot trad climb on the Mechanical Man wall within St. Vrain Canyon, balancing technical crack moves with a secure hand traverse. Perfect for climbers seeking a hands-on experience with quality rock and moderate protection challenges."
Handy Man offers climbers a striking taste of the rugged allure and technical satisfaction found in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. Situated within the Mechanical Man sector of the larger St. Vrain Canyons near Lyons, Colorado, this 90-foot trad route stands out not just for its solid rock, but for an adventurous line that rewards precise gear placement and mindful movement. Starting from the leftmost bolt-and-gear belay on Tier Two, climbers descend via rappel from the ledge atop Tier Three, setting the stage for an approach that already feels hands-on and immersive.
From the comfortable belay ledge, the route invites you to peer upward into the sharp angles of Emissions Testing corner and the shallow, hanging dihedral of The Tooth. Instead of veering right as The Tooth demands, Handy Man moves left toward a distinct crack, hinting at a compelling variation. At this juncture, climbers encounter a solid flake that sweeps gracefully leftward, offering a secure hand traverse of about 20 feet. This section demands steady focus; a mid-traverse bush adds a slight obstacle that keeps the experience grounded in raw nature.
Past the traverse, the climb continues in earnest up a corner crack system that guides you to a bolt-protected belay ledge. This stretch challenges climbers steadily, blending solid hands and feet against clean rock surfaces, punctuated by occasional brushings of natural growth. The route’s grade, 5.9-, strikes a balance—accessible for seasoned novices ready to test their crack climbing skills, yet with enough bite to hold the interest of more experienced climbers.
Those seeking to extend their outing can push beyond the belay, continuing straight up onto Job Site, a 5.7 pitch that still calls for some route-cleaning attention. Alternatively, you can stop here to savor the accomplishment. For the true enthusiast, linking into Mr. Goodwrench and then Auto Repair offers a formidable multi-pitch adventure, scaling nearly 150 feet with a crux rated at 5.10-. This extension demands more specialized gear, notably a 4-inch cam for secure protection, inviting a careful rack selection.
The rock quality on Handy Man is generally very good, though a small amount of cleaning remains to be done around some sections to fully reveal the route’s potential. Protection involves a fairly standard rack with double sets of hand-sized cams, emphasizing solid placements over sparing opportunities. Climbers are rewarded with a physical, engaging line that oscillates pleasingly between straightforward crack climbing and technical traverses.
Accessing the route involves a well-marked approach through the St. Vrain Canyons area, with GPS coordinates keyed to a spot just south of Lyons. Expect a moderate approach via forested trails leading into the canyon walls, with a short but somewhat exposed rappel required to reach the base. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon offers a respite from the harsher sun, given the wall’s east-facing aspect, which catches the light beautifully without baking you in heat.
In all, Handy Man stands as a reliable introduction to the Mechanical Man area, with enough technical features and variety to ensure a memorable day out. Whether you’re topping out at the main pitch or pushing onto Job Site and beyond, this route frames an encounter with Colorado’s steep rock faces that’s as instructive as it is invigorating. Pack quality rack pieces, bring patience for the sporadic brushy bits, and prepare for a climb that rewards controlled technique and a love of rock’s raw textures.
Be cautious during the hand traverse where a bush partially obscures holds; loose vegetation can mask vulnerabilities. Also, the rappel from Tier Three requires solid anchor checks and attention to rope management to avoid snagging on uneven ledges.
Approach early or late in the day to avoid peak sun exposure on the east-facing wall.
Bring a brush to tidy some sections with light vegetation for cleaner holds.
Expect a short rappel from Tier Three to access the route’s belay ledge; ropes of 60 meters suffice.
Link Handy Man with nearby pitches for a multi-pitch day, but plan gear accordingly.
A well-rounded traditional rack is essential, particularly doubles of hand-sized cams. A 4-inch cam is recommended if you plan to continue onto the adjoining Job Site and beyond. While the route is largely well-protected by natural gear, some placements require careful judgment, especially near the hand traverse and crack sections.
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