HomeClimbingHands Away

Hands Away - Gateway Rock Trad Climb in Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree, California United States
left-diagonal crack
hand crack
single-pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
trad gear
moderate crack
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hands Away
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hands Away carves a distinctive left-leaning hand crack on Gateway Rock’s eastern face. This technical, single-pitch trad route offers a focused crack-climbing experience set against the quiet desert backdrop of Joshua Tree National Park."

Hands Away - Gateway Rock Trad Climb in Joshua Tree National Park

Hands Away offers climbers a sharp, engaging trad route carved into the textured granite of Gateway Rock, located within the less-traveled Real Hidden Valley section of Joshua Tree National Park. This climb is defined by a distinct left-diagonal hand crack that demands steady technique and careful gear placement. The crack itself stretches roughly 50 feet along the lower east face of Gateway Rock, presenting a rhythmic challenge where climbers must maintain fluid hand-to-hand jams while navigating the subtle angle. As you approach the climb, the pine-scented air and the soft crunch of footsteps on sandy soil foreground the quiet wilderness around you, a contrast to the buzzing energy that kicks in once you’re on the wall.

The route’s approach is straightforward, located a short distance off the nature trail used by many visitors, yet its position on the eastern aspect ensures it catches morning light that warms the granite surface. This makes early starts ideal, allowing climbers to avoid the harsh midday sun common to Joshua Tree’s desert environment. Protection is predominantly on the smaller side, requiring a good rack of 1.5 to 2-inch cams, with placements that reward precision and patience. The rock quality remains solid, reflecting the typical coarse texture known in this park, helping to maintain reliable holds and gear security.

Hands Away is a single-pitch climb, which offers a compact but complete trad experience. Its moderate length allows for swift runs, perfect for climbers looking to combine this route with other nearby climbs in Real Hidden Valley. While the rating checks in at 5.10a, the climbing tends to lean on the technical, giving a feeling of sustained movement rather than overpowering force. It's a gratifying route for intermediate climbers wanting to sharpen crack climbing skills amidst Joshua Tree’s unique landscape.

The surrounding environment is dominated by towering junipers and scattered pines that frame views stretching across the valley floor to rocky outcrops dotting the horizon. This area is quieter compared to the more popular Joshua Tree sectors, offering a welcome sense of solitude without sacrificing accessibility. Being a part of a federally protected park means the area retains a rugged charm and natural beauty, untouched by development and managed for minimal human impact.

Approach involves a short, well-maintained trail with clear signage, requiring about 10 to 15 minutes from the parking area before you reach the base of the climb. The sandy trail can get warm in mid-afternoon, so carrying ample water and wearing sun protection is advised, even since the rock face gains afternoon shade. Shoes with sticky rubber and comfortable fit for crack jamming will improve the experience, as foot jams on this route play a key role in ascending smoothly. With a handful of votes and a modest star rating, Hands Away remains something of a hidden challenge — a gem for those who prize precision and enjoy quieter corners of Joshua Tree.

Whether you’re seeking a technical trad climb to test your crack climbing or a well-positioned pitch to enjoy calm desert vistas, Hands Away delivers a compelling slice of the Joshua Tree climbing scene with a straightforward layout that rewards focused effort and solid gear work.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the loose sandy trail near the start, and be careful to place cams thoroughly in this thin crack to avoid gear pull-outs. The east-facing wall heats quickly in the sun; avoid climbing during the hottest hours to reduce dehydration risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Begin your climb early to enjoy warming sun on the east-facing wall and avoid desert midday heat.

Bring a rack of smaller cams (1.5 to 2 inches) as larger gear won't fit the crack’s narrow profile.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber and practice foot jams to maintain balance on the thin crack.

Carry sufficient water and sun protection for the short approach trail, especially in warmer months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating reflects a steady technical challenge centered on crack climbing finesse rather than brute strength. Climbers sensitive to crack technique will find the grade fair but continuous, with no single pushing crux—more a test of efficient jamming and gear placement. Compared to other Joshua Tree trad routes, it’s less sustained than long multi-pitch climbs but sharp enough to challenge intermediate crack enthusiasts.

Gear Requirements

A solid rack of cams in the 1.5 to 2+ inch range is essential for safely protecting this crack. Precision gear placement is rewarded given the thin, left-diagonal nature of the crack.

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Tags

left-diagonal crack
hand crack
single-pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
trad gear
moderate crack