"Handbook traces a raw line along Lumpy Ridge’s The Bookend, offering three pitches of gritty crack and face climbing. Perfect for trad climbers eager to balance steady jams with technical moves and expansive summit views."
Carving its path along the sharp profiles of The Bookend, the Handbook is a classic three-pitch trad climb that embodies the rugged spirit of Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park Valley, Colorado. This route sits tucked between the lively Orange Julius to its left and the mysterious Climb of the Ancient Mariner on its right, giving climbers an engaging line that balances crack climbing with technical face moves. Starting from a ledge where a wide, left-facing crack invites the hands and feet, you immediately feel the raw texture of the rock—coarse, reliable, and willing. The first pitch takes you 70 feet straight up this crack, rewarding you with a solid stance and a brief respite to catch your breath.
From here, the second pitch demands finesse in its somewhat flared crack system that leans left, challenging you to mix powerful jams with creative body scumming, a signature difficulty often met in Lumpy Ridge’s distinctive terrain. At around 120 feet long, this pitch pushes your ability to read the subtle rock features while maintaining steady protection. The crack’s flares ask for versatile gear placements, making a standard rack with some larger-size cams essential for safety.
The final pitch turns slightly right, merging with the arete and face of the adjacent Climb of the Ancient Mariner. Here, the climbing shifts to more runout 5.6 face moves that test your balance and nerve while following the line of the Sorcerer to the summit. The exposure opens up, revealing sweeping views over Estes Park and the rugged foothills beyond. Reaching the top, the climb ends on a high NE-facing ledge where you prepare for descent.
The approach to Handbook is moderate, winding through forested trails that soften before the rock faces soar overhead. The rock’s texture, sun exposure, and fluctuating weather create a dynamic playground between June and September, with mornings offering the coolest conditions to start climbing. Hydration is key as the sun can quickly draw moisture from the air, and long pants paired with sturdy climbing shoes afford comfort and safety on the gritty stone.
Handbook strikes a satisfying balance: it offers a solid challenge for intermediate trad climbers, blending classic Lumpy Ridge crack climbing with face moves that keep the adventure fresh and engaging. While the route leans into traditional protection styles, its blend of pitches demands both mental and physical adaptability, rewarding those prepared with a sense of accomplishment and a front-row seat to the Colorado Rockies’ commanding vistas.
Watch for the runout face climbing on the last pitch where protection can be sparse; maintain composure and ensure solid gear is placed on the preceding pitches to keep a safe lead. Also, be mindful of loose rock at the start ledge and keep helmets on.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed rock faces.
Wear sturdy shoes with good edging as some pitches require delicate balance on face moves.
Bring plenty of water and snacks to maintain energy over the multi-pitch climb.
Use caution on the final pitch’s runout sections, maintaining focus on gear placements and footwork.
Prepare a standard trad rack focusing on larger cams—particularly a #4 Camalot—for placements in the wide and flared cracks. Smaller nuts and cams remain useful but emphasis on bigger gear is critical for secure protection.
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