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Hand Pain Jam: A Raw Trad Climb on Porky's Wall

Denver, Colorado United States
loose rock
exposed
hand jams
alpine
single pitch
Castlewood Canyon
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hand Pain Jam
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hand Pain Jam on Porky’s Wall challenges climbers with loose rock and sparse protection, rewarding those who navigate its exposed 5.9 X terrain with steep, improving rock and stunning views across Castlewood Canyon. A gritty test of skill and nerve just outside Denver."

Hand Pain Jam: A Raw Trad Climb on Porky's Wall

Hand Pain Jam offers a gritty introduction to trad climbing with a sharp alpine edge right in Castlewood Canyon State Park, just outside Denver. This single-pitch 5.9 X route challenges climbers with loose face holds and scattered cobbles that demand focus and caution before rewarding with steeper, more solid rock as you ascend the 70-foot wall. The climb’s character is one of uncompromising exposure and rough textures, exposing each movement and gear placement to scrutiny. Conversation with the rock is unforgiving here—hand jams and delicate face moves team up to test both technique and nerve.

Approaching Porky’s Wall, you’ll pass through open pinyon and juniper terrain, the air carrying a dry earth scent mingled with the faint whisper of wind-stirred grasses. The approach trail is moderate in difficulty, composed of loose scree and compact dirt, demanding steady footing as you reach the base. Timing your climb is crucial, as the southern-facing wall bakes in the late morning and afternoon sun, turning already warm summer days into a potential heat trap. Early mornings or cooler seasons offer far more comfortable conditions.

Protection here requires a keen eye and creative gear placements. The rock’s fractured nature means traditional pro can be hard to place securely, especially in the lower sections where holds and cracks are sketchy at best. As the route steepens, placements improve but remain sparse. This is no climb for the gear novice; solid experience with bomber placements and a willingness to back off some runs is essential. Expect to run it out in places where protection might feel tenuous, heightening the psychological demands alongside the physical ones.

The climb’s rating of 5.9 X indicates that while the technical difficulty may seem moderate, the potential for a dangerous fall is significant, making situational awareness and mental control key aspects of a successful ascent. Climbers with experience on similarly rated desert or alpine routes will find Hand Pain Jam’s exposed nature familiar, but newcomers should proceed with caution and clear planning.

Upon reaching the top, the reward is a sweeping view across Castlewood Canyon’s rugged wilderness, where pine-studded ridges dip into narrow river valleys. The descent calls for a careful walk-off along a steep, loose slope—descending without haste is critical to avoid dislodging rock or slipping. Overall, Hand Pain Jam stands as a raw test of climbing on natural, unpolished stone with practical challenges that sharpen skills and resilience.

Whether you’re a local climber seeking a brief yet intense alpine climb or visiting Denver with a taste for exposed, traditional routes, Hand Pain Jam demands respect and preparation but offers an authentic slice of Colorado’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and cobbles create fall hazards, and gear is not always reliable—fall potential is serious. Approach and descent involve unstable scree slopes, so wear a helmet and move carefully, especially when rappelling is not an option.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging for loose cobbles and face holds.

Check weather carefully; rock can get slick after rain.

Be cautious on the descent—loose scree and steep terrain demand slow, deliberate steps.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 X
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 X grade signals moderate technical moves paired with significant runout that elevates the risk. While the climbing isn’t overly complex, protection is sparse and conditions require solid trad experience. For those familiar with Colorado’s alpine trad routes, this climb feels appropriately stiff, with a crux near the steeper top section where the rock quality improves but protection remains scarce.

Gear Requirements

Protection is limited and sometimes tricky to place due to loose rock and sparse cracks. Bring a full rack with a focus on smaller cams and nuts, and be prepared for potentially runout sections where gear may be marginal or absent.

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Tags

loose rock
exposed
hand jams
alpine
single pitch
Castlewood Canyon