"Halley’s Comet is a split-finger crack climb on Squamish's Dog Wall, offering two pitches of sustained crack climbing and technical slab. Its rich history and exposed traverses make it a memorable trad classic."
Halley’s Comet is a standout traditional climb that slices vertically through the heart of Dog Wall, boasting a clean, finger-to-hand splitter crack that challenges and rewards with equal measure. Situated on the left side of Dog Wall, this route catches the unblinking attention of climbers in nearby Valleycliffe—its steep, rugged face rising above the homes like a natural monument to adventure. First ascended in 1985 by Joe Turley and Ted Marks, two amateur astronomers who shared both a passion for stars and vertical lines, the climb carries the aura of its namesake comet—anticipation, precision, and a fleeting brilliance.
The route climbs roughly 300 feet across two pitches, combining technical crack moves with exposed traverses and delicate slab sections. The first pitch offers a varied introduction: an exposed traverse left into a large flake system, then negotiating horizontal cracks leading to a wide-hands corner crack that ends at a ledge protected by two bolts. It’s a moderate start, rated 5.7, but the exposure ensures your senses stay sharp. The second pitch is the real heart of the route, a sustained 5.10c splitter crack that demands hand jams, finger locks, and body positioning to inch upward. When the crack thins out near the top, a well-placed bolt secures the delicate slab moves before reaching the two-bolt anchor.
Approaching Halley’s Comet has evolved over time. The original access required 4th class scrambling through steep, forested terrain to the left side of the wall, a scramble that tested both route-finding and nerve. Today, a newly established first pitch offers a more straightforward, friendlier approach to the base of the main crack, allowing climbers to save energy for the climb itself. The forest around Dog Wall seems to breathe new life into the route, both protecting and softening the edges of this classic line.
Gear up with a full rack of nuts and a double set of cams from BD sizes 0.3 to 2, with a single #3 cam for added security. Those looking to run full doubles in the smaller sizes (0.3 to 0.75) will find they can stitch pitches with tighter gear placements, improving safety on the exposed traverses and crack sections. The protection is straightforward but demands attentive gear placement—this climb is as much about finesse on gear as it is on holds.
Descending involves three rappels using a 60-meter rope. From the summit, climbers pull up a handline to reach a forested terrace, then hike up and right to the first rappel station. The initial rappel uses a tree anchor, followed by two more rappels from bolted anchors. This descent sequence requires careful attention to rope management and terrain, especially during wet or mossy conditions common in the Squamish rainforest.
Halley’s Comet is a test of crack climbing skill and mental resolve framed by the Pacific Northwest’s lush greenery and cool mountain air. It rewards those who show respect for the route’s history and challenge, making it a must-do for trad climbers seeking a route that blends technical climbing with a practical, grounded adventure on one of Canada’s premier granite walls.
Beware of slippery moss and wet rock, especially on the approach and slab moves; the route’s exposure demands confident movement and secure placements. The descent involves multiple rappels; ensure your rope is sufficient length and check anchors carefully before descending.
Approach via the new first pitch to avoid difficult 4th class scrambling.
Bring a 60m rope to cover all rappels without setting up intermediate stations.
Check weather forecasts; the route is prone to moss and wetness in damp conditions.
Practice solid crack climbing techniques for fingers and hands before attempting pitch two.
Nuts and a double set of cams (BD sizes 0.3 to 2) are essential; a single #3 cam rounds out the rack. Triples in the smaller cams help with tighter stitching on the traverse and cracks.
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