"Hakuna Matata sits on Flatrock's Main Face and offers a crisp 60-foot single pitch of 5.9 sport climbing. Smooth granite, a subtle roof traverse, and solid protection create an accessible yet engaging climb on Newfoundland's rugged coast."
Hakuna Matata offers a refreshing sport climbing experience on Flatrock’s sun-kissed Main Face, a solid destination for adventurers looking to push into 5.9 terrain with style and ease. This single-pitch route stretches about 60 feet, beginning with confident moves on reliable holds that encourage a steady rhythm before a distinctive leftward traverse around a small roof captures your attention. The horizontal cracks here provide a natural feature to grip and climb around, injecting some textured variety into the ascent. The granite offers consistent friction, rewarding precise footwork and steady breathing.
Set on the Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland, the approach to Flatrock is straightforward and accessible, following trails through gently rolling forest and scrub that quiet the mind and prepare climbers for the granite’s call. The face itself soaks up daylight thanks to its southern exposure, warming smoothing handholds and illuminating each move in golden sunlight during mid-morning through afternoon. Cool, salty breezes from the nearby Atlantic keep the air fresh and invigorating, pushing off any lingering fatigue.
The protection is straightforward: four well-placed bolts secure the lead climber comfortably up the vertical face. For those willing to extend their safety net, a small cam placement is possible between the last bolt and the top anchor, tucked in a horizontal crack, adding an element of traditional protection alongside sport convenience. The anchors above are solid, offering a secure belay stance and straightforward descent options.
Hakuna Matata’s consistent friction and accessible moves make it an excellent introduction to climbing in this region, balancing energizing flow with moments that require focus, like the roof traverse. The single pitch limits your commitment but delivers enough complexity to satisfy newer and intermediate climbers. Plus, the quiet, rugged charm of Newfoundland’s coast emphasizes connection to the natural world without the crowds.
Climbers should time their ascent for late spring through early fall to enjoy the best weather and avoid the region’s brisk winds and moisture-heavy sessions. Footwear that grips well on granite and a light layer to combat chill from ocean air are wise choices. Hydration is crucial—though the climb is short, the energy output and fresh air make for easy dehydration if overlooked.
In sum, this climb is a balanced experience for anyone ready to engage with Newfoundland’s coastal rock face—inviting, practical, and rewarding.
While protection is well bolted, be aware that the horizontal crack section offers limited passive gear placements only available above the last bolt. Climbers should remain cautious during the roof traverse, especially if placing the optional cam, as the exposure increases subtly here. Check anchors before descent and avoid climbing in wet conditions as the granite can become slick.
Approach via the well-maintained trail from Flatrock parking area, expect about a 20-minute hike through open forest and coastal scrub.
Climb mid-morning to afternoon for optimal sunlight and friction on the granite face.
Bring a small cam in the .75 range to supplement bolt protection if desired.
Wear shoes with a sticky sole to handle the granite's texture and maintain foot precision.
Four bolts along the route make quickdraws essential, with the option to place a small cam (.75 Camalot size) in a horizontal crack between the fourth bolt and the top anchor for added security.
Upload your photos of Hakuna Matata and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.