HomeClimbingHairy Airy

Hairy Airy: A Classic 5.9 Crack in North San Diego County

Temecula, California United States
crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
lieback
crux
San Diego climbing
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hairy Airy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hairy Airy is a dynamic 35-foot crack climb near Dixon Lake that tests steady footwork and crack techniques with a standout crux and a rewarding jug finish. This single pitch is perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills in a sunny Southern California setting."

Hairy Airy: A Classic 5.9 Crack in North San Diego County

Hairy Airy offers an inviting challenge that captures the essence of traditional crack climbing within a compact, single-pitch route. Sitting just a few feet right of the familiar Chimney at the Y Crack Area near Dixon Lake, this climb draws you into its fist-sized crack that quickly sets the tone for a technical but rewarding ascent. The opening moves demand steady footwork and confidence in hand jams, as you angle upwards along a right-slanting crack that soon requires a traverse. This section leads you toward a generous jug—an essential handhold that provides a moment to recalibrate and prepare for the main event.

From the jug, the climb arcs up an elegant corner feature, where liebacking skills come into play. Here, the rock seems to challenge your body position, coaxing you into a carefully balanced, sideways pull that tests your grip and core strength. Just as you settle into this rhythm, the crux arrives—technical and precise, it requires a calculated reach and solid control to power through. Reward follows immediately in the form of a bomber jug that hangs like a prize just beyond the crux. Adventurous climbers often seize this moment for an iconic one-handed hang, a move that promises both a memorable photo opportunity and a well-earned pause before the final mantle.

Protection on Hairy Airy mostly depends on traditional gear; bring a full set of cams suited for finger to hand-sized placements. Near the top, a couple of bolts provide additional security for leads, though this climb's essence is in managing careful gear placements throughout the crack. A bolt low on the route offers an alternative line moving right, ramping up the difficulty to 5.11b if you want to test yourself further.

Access to the climb is straightforward, with a short approach that leads through gentle terrain favored by local climbers. The setting in North San Diego County offers a blend of dry rock and moderate exposure to sun, making early mornings or late afternoons ideal for climbing when temperatures are cooler. Dixon Lake lies nearby, adding a fresh splash of green to the rocky landscape—a reminder of the balance between challenge and calm inherent to this region.

Hairy Airy demands respect but rewards with pure crack climbing that is as fun as it is educational. Its combination of technical crack work, a distinct crux, and strong holds invites climbers to engage fully with the movement and the rock’s personality. Whether you’re sharpening your crack skills or seeking a solid 5.9 to enjoy with reliable protection, this route stands out as a reliable choice in the San Diego area.

Prepare for your climb with the right rack of cams, double-check your knots, and time your ascent to avoid the midday sun. The route’s modest length—approximately 35 feet—ensures a concentrated blast of climbing that fits perfectly into any day of exploring the region’s traditional offerings. After the climb, the area’s quiet trail network invites easy descent and plenty of space to reflect on the experience, gear up for the next challenge, or simply soak up the natural surroundings.

Hairy Airy is a solid introduction to the Y Crack Area and a highlight for those who appreciate straightforward but engaging crack climbing with a memorable finish.

Climber Safety

While most protection is solid, the crux section demands careful gear placement in less obvious spots. Avoid relying solely on the bolts higher up as these don't cover the entire crux. Watch for slick rock patches near the mantel top, especially if climbing after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Approach early or late in the day to avoid midday heat.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for optimal crack friction.

Double-check placements near the crux for added safety.

Keep the rack light but comprehensive—with smaller cams critical for the initial crack.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade is true to the route's technical demands, with a crux that can feel more like 5.9+ due to the awkward lieback and reach. Compared to nearby climbs, it sits comfortably as a solid moderate, slightly stiff climb that offers great value for trad climbers refining crack tactics.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with cams sized for finger to hand cracks. The route includes a few bolts near the top for lead protection. A bolt low on the route supports a steeper 5.11b variant moving right if you're seeking a harder challenge.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
lieback
crux
San Diego climbing