"Hair Raiser Buttress delivers a classic Sierra Eastside challenge combining traditional runout moves with bolted security. This multi-pitch climb offers slab technique and mental endurance in a stunning, remote granite setting."
Situated along California’s Sierra Eastside, Hair Raiser Buttress stands as a solid offering for climbers eager to blend traditional grit with bolted security. First ascended by Vern Clevenger and Tom Higgins in 1975, this route carries a palpable sense of history and adventure. The climb demands mental sharpness more than outright power, with runout sections that challenge your confidence and slab moves that reward precise technique. Alan Hirahara’s bolt additions provide some anchors, although rumor holds that parts of the fixed hardware have been removed, making protection placement and route-finding skills essential companions on this ascent.
The first pitch introduces you to the route’s character immediately: delicate moves up a striking slab face that tests both footwork and nerve. Those early meters require navigating carefully positioned blocks before reaching a two-bolt belay approximately 115 feet overhead. The rock’s texture under your fingers is firm but flirtatiously slick in places, urging you to trust your smearing and balance. The second pitch steps up in exposure but moderates slightly in technical demand; rated 5.8, it unfolds along a line offering modest holds and steadiness, culminating in another two-bolt belay.
Pitch three completes the climb with some steeper, more sustained climbing rated at 5.9. Here, your endurance and route-reading pay off as you push for the upper two-bolt anchor. The route’s mixture of runout stretches and protected sections keeps you engaged mentally throughout, making each move a deliberate negotiation with the rock.
Approaching the wall, you’ll find the granite quality crisp and clean, a reliable canvas for gear placements. Speaking of protection, draws and a rack including small stoppers and TCUs are necessary to navigate the blend of traditional and sport pitches safely. The absence or removal of some bolts demands a solid familiarity with placing small gear under varied conditions.
After topping out, descent options include either a series of rappels or a walk-off toward the left side of the formation. The walk-off trails through talus and shrub, so careful footing is key, particularly after exertion. Planning your descent route in advance, and checking for daylight and weather, will help avoid any post-climb surprises.
Hair Raiser Buttress is ideal for climbers transitioning between sport and trad, looking to sharpen redpoint skills while respecting the route’s wild, old-school character. It’s also a rewarding destination for those who crave solitude and the chance to climb in unpatrolled wilderness on solid granite with deep Sierra views framing the effort. Best tackled during the drier months, the route fares well when temps are moderate, allowing the rock to dry and grip to be at its best.
Getting here means stepping into a landscape where the eastern Sierra meets rugged hills, with Sagehen Summit and Granite Basin offering a quiet yet inspiring backdrop. Prepare for some straightforward trail hiking to reach the base, bring adequate hydration, and wear climbing shoes tuned for slab technique to maximize your edge on this adventurous climb. Whether you’re piecing together gear placements or clipping fixed bolts, Hair Raiser Buttress offers a thoughtful and satisfying multi-pitch experience that honors vintage climbing roots while providing contemporary challenges.
Runout slabs demand careful route reading and precise footwork, while some bolts may no longer be in place. Pay attention to your protection placements, and assess each anchor before trusting it. The descent walk-off includes loose talus—watch footing to avoid slips after the climb.
Approach involves a moderate hike; pack enough water for the trip and climb.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber and precise edging for slab proficiency.
Scout the condition of bolts on arrival; some hardware may have been chopped.
Descent options include rappelling from fixed anchors or a walk-off left; choose based on your comfort and daylight.
Essential draws and a rack loaded with small stoppers and TCUs will keep you covered on both the traditional runout sections and bolted anchors. Trust your gear placements where bolts have reportedly been removed.
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