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Hail Mary: Classic Trad Climb on Kinnaird Bluffs

Castlegar, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
open book
crux bulge
fixed anchors
multi-pitch
alpine
trad gear
Length: 275 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Hail Mary
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hail Mary is a three-pitch trad climb on Kinnaird Bluffs that blends crisp finger cracks with alpine exposure. Its balanced challenge and solid protection make it a must-try for trad climbers seeking a classic line in British Columbia's vibrant climbing scene."

Hail Mary: Classic Trad Climb on Kinnaird Bluffs

Hail Mary stands as a steadfast challenge on the rugged cliffs of Kinnaird Bluffs, offering climbers a well-rounded alpine trad experience that demands both technique and nerve. Located in the lush, forested edges of British Columbia’s Kootenays West region, this three-pitch route traces a path up clean, vertical cracks that invite you to test your finger strength and route-finding skills. The climb’s origin dates back to 1985, and while originally suggested as 5.8, subtle technical nuances nudge the difficulty comfortably into 5.9 territory. This rating signals a climb that asks for solid fundamentals but also rewards with satisfying movement and a strong sense of adventure.

The first pitch begins in a striking left-facing corner just right of a prominent roof—a natural guidepost that anchors your mental map. Moving swiftly through this section, you’ll transition to a vertical finger crack that leads to a peaceful ledge and alcove, an ideal spot to regroup. Fixed anchors ease the belay setup, allowing you a moment to absorb the cool, pine-scented air and hear the distant whisper of the surrounding wilderness.

Pitch two introduces the crux, a bulge in the open book that challenges climbers to summon controlled power and precise footwork. Once past this move, the climb relaxes slightly as you navigate toward a second stable ledge with another fixed anchor, offering both security and a scenic vantage point.

The final pitch invites a bit of creativity as you head left, choosing among vertical cracks that snake skyward through exposed rock faces. This segment encapsulates the route’s alpine character—it’s less straightforward, more personal. The fixed anchors are there, but choosing your line carefully will make the difference between a smooth finish or a tough scramble. The descent calls for a careful rappel; knots in the rope are essential when sliding down this well-traveled route.

Protection on Hail Mary is straightforward but demands preparedness. A double rack is recommended, with a mandatory 4-inch cam that fits the larger cracks and a full set of stoppers. Long slings will help manage gear placements on the alpine granite, which, while solid, rewards careful placements to stay safe. The route’s consistent crack systems take pro reliably, providing peace of mind on this exposed wall.

Access to Hail Mary begins from the base of Kinnaird Bluffs, situated just outside Castlegar. The approach is a short trek through mixed forest trails covered in soft pine needles, offering a calm transition from the parked car to the rugged ascent. It takes roughly 20-30 minutes to reach the base, and the GPS coordinates 49.26667, -117.66109 will guide you precisely to this classic gem.

Early summer to early fall offers the best window to climb here. The east-facing wall warms quickly with the morning sun, drying fast and creating pleasant climbing temperatures before afternoon heat builds below. Shade returns mid to late afternoon, which can be helpful on warmer days. Keep an eye on weather forecasts, as conditions can shift rapidly in the Kootenays.

In all, Hail Mary combines accessible climbing with alpine aesthetics. It’s a route where commitment and skill meet the raw character of British Columbia’s granite cliffs, making each pitch an invitation to engage fully with the rock and escape into the mountain air.

Climber Safety

The descent requires rappelling down fixed anchors—be sure to tie knots in your ropes to avoid rappelling off the ends. Watch for loose rock near the approach and cracks that can present tricky gear placements if not carefully assessed.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches3
Length275 feet

Local Tips

Approach via forest trail about 20-30 minutes from trailhead; follow GPS coordinates for accuracy.

Tie knots in your rappel ropes to prevent unexpected slides on descent.

Start early to take advantage of morning sun warming the east-facing wall.

Double check your protection size, especially carrying at least one 4-inch cam.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though initially rated 5.8, subtle technical moves, especially on the crux bulge of pitch two, elevate the challenge to a solid 5.9. The difficulty feels true to grade without harsh spikes, offering a consistent test for solid trad climbers comfortable with crack climbing and moderate alpine exposure. Compared to nearby climbs in the Kootenays, Hail Mary strikes a nice balance between accessibility and climbing quality.

Gear Requirements

Bring a double rack centered around a 4-inch cam, plus a complete set of stoppers and plenty of long slings for managing gear placements along the cracks. The route’s consistent protection opportunities reward careful placements, ensuring safety throughout the climb.

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Tags

finger crack
open book
crux bulge
fixed anchors
multi-pitch
alpine
trad gear