Adventure Collective

Haggis at Scot Rock: A Focused Trad Climb in the San Bernardino Mountains

Lake Arrowhead, California United States
crack climbing
roof crux
trad gear
single pitch
San Bernardino Mountains
Lake Arrowhead
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Haggis
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Haggis is a focused trad climb featuring a demanding roof section cleaved by twin cracks that test technical skill. Located at Scot Rock near Lake Arrowhead, it offers a short, concentrated challenge within the San Bernardino Mountains, perfect for trad climbers looking to refine their crack climbing technique."

Haggis at Scot Rock: A Focused Trad Climb in the San Bernardino Mountains

Haggis offers climbers a concise yet rewarding trad experience within the rugged contours of Scot Rock, located in the Lake Arrowhead area of California’s San Bernardino Mountains. Beginning with a direct ascent up Crazy Rock, the route demands careful footwork and steady hands as you skirt left around a prominent block. The true challenge reveals itself at the roof section, where twin sharply defined "V" cracks slice through the overhang, calling for precise jamming and confident movement to conquer the bulge above. Beyond this technical crux, the terrain eases, allowing climbers to catch a breath and settle into less demanding moves en route to the shared anchors. Measuring roughly 50 feet over a single pitch, Haggis strikes a balance between technical engagement and approachable length, perfect for climbers honing their crack climbing skills or those looking to sample classic trad climbing in this lesser-traveled segment of the San Bernardino range. Stacked gear placements up to 2 inches protect the route, with anchors shared alongside Crazy Rock providing reliable top-out safety.

The setting invites a sensory encounter with the surrounding landscape: rough granite warmed by the sun, the crisp air carrying the faint scent of pine, and distant sounds of the forest pushing subtly against the wall. Although the climb feels contained, the open exposure at the roof challenges your resolve, demanding attention to each move and gear placement. This route rewards patient climbers who respect trad climbing's methodical pace, providing a solid introduction to crack systems within an area well known for its mix of accessible and challenging climbs.

For those planning their ascent, early morning climbs are recommended to avoid the sun-soaked rock, with the wall’s orientation offering partial shade as the day progresses. Classic approach trails weave through forested slopes for about 20 minutes, with terrain that remains steady yet uneven — bring sturdy shoes for the scrub and loose gravel commonly encountered en route. Water is scarce nearby, so pack accordingly. Because protection is mostly trad, climbers should come prepared with a rack including cams up to 2 inches and expect some tricky placements at the roof feature, where secure gear is crucial to confidently push through the crux.

This route suits climbers with a solid trad background aiming to sharpen their crack climbing technique, or visitors to the Lake Arrowhead area who want a quick but technically satisfying project. With just one pitch and moderate length, Haggis also fits well into a half-day climbing schedule, allowing time to explore other nearby routes or soak in the rugged mountain atmosphere.

Climber Safety

The roof section demands precise gear placements in tight cracks—double-check placements before committing to moves above. Loose gravel near the approach requires caution on descent and approach trails, especially when gearing up or down.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the strong afternoon sun heating the rock.

Pack boots with sticky rubber to handle the sharp granite and slick roof moves.

Carry enough water—there’s no reliable water source close to the approach.

Share anchors respectfully if climbing with parties on Crazy Rock, as they are communal.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels about right for those comfortable on moderate trad climbs; the key difficulty lies in managing sustained crack jams at the roof bullet. While the grade is generally approachable, the technical roof forces a modest bump in effort. Climbers familiar with nearby 5.7 to 5.9 routes in the region should find Haggis an excellent step-up in crack climbing focus without being overwhelming.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear placements up to 2 inches provide solid security along the route, with anchors shared with Crazy Rock. Expect some committing placements at the roof's twin "V" cracks—cams and nuts sized for finger to hand jams are essential.

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Tags

crack climbing
roof crux
trad gear
single pitch
San Bernardino Mountains
Lake Arrowhead