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Gut it Out: The Rugged Trad Line at The Gut, Newfoundland

St John's, Canada
offwidth
roof
crack
chimney
coastal
exposed
single pitch
trad
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Gut it Out
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Gut it Out stands as a challenging trad climb where ocean winds meet solid crack systems. Its tight chimney and roof sections demand technical skill, while a rewarding ledge scramble returns you safely to trail—an adventure shaped by rugged coastal exposure."

Gut it Out: The Rugged Trad Line at The Gut, Newfoundland

Gut it Out offers climbers a solid introduction to trad climbing on Newfoundland’s wild east coast, tucked along the rocky edge of The Gut near Quidi Vidi. The approach places you just steps above the relentless swell, where the ocean seems to challenge your commitment, pushing and pulling at the base with steady tides. The rock here is a gritty canvas of sharp cracks and textured flakes, rewarding patient footwork and sharp technique. After recent rains, expect the rock to weep along the route’s steep walls—waiting a couple of dry days will improve friction and comfort.

Starting with a tight crack just past a notable pocket, you’ll negotiate a demanding squeeze chimney and roof section that calls for precise offwidth moves and laybacking finesse. These features demand respect, offering a physical, engaging climb that builds into easier but satisfying flakes tracing an upward arc to the top. While the route is a single pitch, the climbing feels layered, moving steadily between technical sections and more relaxed jams.

Anchors at the summit provide secure top-outs, and from there, unroping allows a careful third-class scramble along ledges hugging the cliff’s right flank. This lengthy traverse leads you away from the exposure, winding safely back toward the main trailhead—an ideal break after the intensity of the crack.

Protection is straightforward but requires some planning: a rack ranging from small nuts to #6 Camalots covers the gear needed, including a blue Big Bro or a tricky, well-placed #6 Camalot. Long slings are important for managing rope drag through the varied crack sizes and roof features. Multiple solid anchor points are found near the top, typically assembled with cams in the .75 to 1 range and supplemented with tricams.

Access follows a path close to the water’s edge, where the crashing waves sound an ever-present drumbeat. The approach is short but demands attention due to wet, uneven terrain and the proximity to ocean spray. Plan your climb for calm weather and low swell to ease approach worries and reduce rock moisture. The area’s northern latitude means the best climbing windows are late spring through early fall, when temperatures are comfortable and daylight is generous.

Climbing Gut it Out not only tests physical technique but also challenges mental toughness with its raw setting. It’s a route for those eager to engage with rugged nature and push their trad skills in an environment shaped as much by sea and weather as the rock itself. Expect grit, ocean spray, and a climb that rewards preparation and grit with memorable moves and sweeping coastal views.

Climber Safety

Beware of the route's proximity to the water line; waves during high swell can make the approach and base hazardous. The rock’s seepage after rain increases slip risk, especially on offwidth sections. Use caution during the final scramble for loose rock and unstable ledges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Wait a few dry days after rain to avoid slippery, seeped rock.

Approach carefully near the water line—watch for wet and unstable footing.

Bring at least one #4 Camalot and a Big Bro or large #6 Camalot for offwidth protection.

Plan your climb for late spring through early fall to avoid cold, wet conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Gut it Out feels true to its technical demands, particularly where offwidth and layback techniques come into play. The route offers a firm challenge that may feel stiff for those new to offwidth moves, but experienced climbers familiar with Newfoundland’s sea-sculpted cracks will find it approachable yet rewarding. The crux chimney adds a physical pump not always expected in a 5.9, setting it apart from nearby climbs that lean more purely on finger cracks or face climbing.

Gear Requirements

Pack a sparse rack with cams from small sizes up to #6 Camalots. Long slings help manage rope drag through roof and chimney sections. A blue Big Bro or a well-placed #6 Camalot can protect larger offwidth sections. Anchor with midsize cams and tricams at the top.

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Tags

offwidth
roof
crack
chimney
coastal
exposed
single pitch
trad