HomeClimbingGrovel Pit

Grovel Pit at Devil's Head: A Classic Trad Climb with a Distinctive Chimney Challenge

Evergreen, Colorado USA
chimney
wide crack
hand crack
single pitch
traditional protection
Colorado front range
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Grovel Pit
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Grovel Pit delivers a direct single-pitch adventure featuring a broad shallow crack and a chimney crux that rewards body positioning and precise gear placement. Ideal for trad climbers eager to refine chimney techniques within reach of Denver’s front range."

Grovel Pit at Devil's Head: A Classic Trad Climb with a Distinctive Chimney Challenge

Grovel Pit presents a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing experience along the rugged walls near Devil's Head in Colorado. The climb unfolds over 100 feet, starting with a broad ramp that leads directly to a wide, shallow crack, inviting climbers to test their gear placements and technique early on. This crack isn’t just a passage—it demands finesse, especially in securing protection, as the route favors wider gear sizes that fit snugly deep in the back of the crack.

From this starting point, the line ascends towards a sizable ledge positioned just beneath a dominant chimney section. This chimney offers the route’s defining moment of difficulty about halfway up—a crux that challenges both balance and body type, leaning toward climbers with slimmer frames for an easier ascent. Successfully navigating this chimney requires a blend of steady footwork and confident hand jams that push you upward while wresting control from the rock.

Upon surmounting the chimney, the climb shifts direction slightly as you traverse left towards a prominent hand crack leading to the anchors. This final segment allows you to settle into a rhythm, trusting your placements and muscle memory as you close out the pitch. The protection along the entire route is generally dependable but leans heavily on wide cams, making careful gear selection essential before topping out.

Set against the backdrop of Devil’s Head—an area known for accessible climbs with striking views of Colorado’s forested highlands—Grovel Pit offers a concise, focused outing with enough challenge to keep climbers attentive but not overwhelmed. The approach from the Devil's Head parking area is manageable, placing you close to the route without a lengthy trek, which means more energy conserved for the climb itself.

For those planning Grovel Pit, timing your effort to avoid the heat of midday is wise, as parts of the climb can bake under the afternoon sun in summer months. Early morning or late afternoon climbs provide cool shadows and a crisp mountain breeze, making the experience more comfortable and refreshing. Consider bringing ample water due to limited shade and the dry climate.

Whether you’re advancing your trad skills or enjoying a solid introduction to chimney climbing, Grovel Pit represents a balanced offering of technical moves and classic crack climbing in an easily accessible Colorado setting. The climb’s moderate 5.8 difficulty means it’s suited to climbers ready to stretch their abilities while experiencing the region’s characteristic rock and terrain up close.

Climber Safety

Wide gear placements can be tricky; double-check gear stability before committing on the ramp and chimney. Loose rock is uncommon, but care is advised when traversing left out of the chimney to the anchors.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Devil’s Head parking for a short, manageable hike to the base of the route.

Early morning climbs offer respite from midday heat, as sun exposure intensifies later in the day.

Prioritize wide cams in your rack; narrower gear won’t fit securely on the main crack section.

Prepare for the chimney’s crux by practicing body positioning and chimney movement techniques beforehand.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.8, Grovel Pit’s grade feels consistent, with a clear crux in the chimney that adds an extra push to an otherwise moderate climb. This crux leans slightly harder for bulkier climbers but generally fits well with the traditional climbing style found nearby. The climb provides a balanced test of crack and chimney skills without stepping into more sustained or technical 5.9 terrain.

Gear Requirements

Wide gear is essential on Grovel Pit due to the broad, shallow crack formations. Bring a solid rack of larger cams to secure effective protection throughout the climb.

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Tags

chimney
wide crack
hand crack
single pitch
traditional protection
Colorado front range