HomeClimbingGround Control to Major Tom

Ground Control to Major Tom: A Serious Ten-Pitch Trad Testpiece in Black Canyon

Gunnison, Colorado United States
runout
multi-pitch
black canyon
trad gear
route finding
exposure
corners
overlaps
slab friction
Length: 1300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
10
Location
Ground Control to Major Tom
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ground Control to Major Tom stands as a demanding ten-pitch trad route in Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Its steady length and serious climbing blend with stunning canyon views, offering a challenge for climbers ready to manage tricky route-finding and run-out sections."

Ground Control to Major Tom: A Serious Ten-Pitch Trad Testpiece in Black Canyon

Carving a demanding line through the rugged cliffs of Black Canyon's South Rim, Ground Control to Major Tom offers experienced trad climbers a lengthy and committed adventure across some of Gunnison’s most unforgiving terrain. With ten pitches stretching over 1,300 feet, this route challenges you with serious climbing, sparse protection in key sections, and intricate route-finding that demands full attention. Rock quality varies but remains generally solid, framed by expansive views of the North Chasm View Wall that reward every step upward.

Access begins with a descent down the Chillum Stone gully, followed by a steep rappel off a 140-foot drop. Arriving at the base, your journey starts with a distinct right-leaning crack, guarded by a large Ponderosa pine perched high above the initial sections. The first pitches unfold into a mix of crack systems and overlaps, punctuated by grassy ledges that serve as natural rests and awkward belay stations. Expect some strenuous moves on 5.7 terrain here, with protection opportunities limited but manageable for a well-prepared rack.

Progressing through pitch three, you'll encounter a run-out slab traverse where gear placements are rare, demanding calm nerve and confident friction moves just before reaching safer ground. The route snakes through various corner systems with undercling and layback techniques, some pitches feeling more strenuous than their grades suggest, especially under the R rating which places added seriousness on falls.

Mid-route, a standout pegmatite slab offers an airy, run-out bouldering test—bold and precise, it demands delicate footwork and focused route reading to navigate the single old bolt with large runouts on both sides. Climbers here experience a palpable tension between movement and margin, creating an exhilarating sense of exposure. Near the large leaning Ponderosa tree, rope drag can become a concern as the line traverses and corners, requiring tactile rope management.

The upper pitches bring further commitment with a 5.8 headwall hand crack and a demanding thin hands splitter finishing move that might be the hardest on the route, pushing into 5.9 territory with reliable pro. The final shoulder leads to the canyon rim where the descent begins, involving some fourth-class downclimbing, ridge traversing, and bushwhacking that keeps the climb extended and interesting until you reconnect with the road.

Prepare for a serious day in the canyon: sturdy trad gear including a full range of cams and wires up to 3.5 inches is essential. Rope management, careful route-finding, and a readiness for run-outs mark this line as a test of both skill and mental stamina. The isolated setting and steep walls mean that emergencies require self-reliance and planning, but the payoff is an unforgettable experience in one of Colorado’s most iconic climbing landscapes.

Climber Safety

Climbing here demands vigilance due to sparse protection in multiple sections. Belay ledges are often awkward and small, requiring solid anchor building skills. The descent includes exposed fourth-class downclimbing and bushwhacking, so bailout options are limited and careful planning is crucial.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches10
Length1300 feet

Local Tips

Access via Chillum Stone gully; rappel around 140 feet to base starting point.

Beware rope drag near the large Ponderosa pine; plan belays accordingly.

Route-finding is complex; study topo and be prepared for grassy ledges with no fixed anchors.

Descend by a combination of fourth-class downclimbs and bushwhacking to reconnect with the road.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.8 R, this route’s serious run-outs and tricky moves punctuate the challenge. The added R rating warns of high-consequence falls, especially on slab and overlap pitches where pro is scarce. Some pitches feel stiff for their grade, particularly the final thin hand crack and the run-out pegmatite slab with long bolt-free sections.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack featuring a full set of cams and wires to 3.5 inches. Some sections have sparse protection, so prioritize reliable placements and be ready for run-outs especially on slab and crack traverses.

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Tags

runout
multi-pitch
black canyon
trad gear
route finding
exposure
corners
overlaps
slab friction