HomeClimbingGroovin'

Groovin' on Iris Slab: A Bold Trad Challenge in Sierra Eastside

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
trad
crack climbing
runout
single pitch
granite
technical finish
Length: ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Groovin'
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Groovin' challenges climbers with a mix of delicate crack work and a deceptively tough undercling finish. Set on Iris Slab by Mammoth Lakes, this one-pitch trad climb blends technical footwork with cautious protection for a memorable session."

Groovin' on Iris Slab: A Bold Trad Challenge in Sierra Eastside

Groovin' stands out as a compact yet demanding climb set on the furthest right edge of Iris Slab, a striking formation on the outskirts of Rock Creek in California’s Sierra Eastside. This route, rated 5.8 R, delivers a unique blend of technical crack climbing and tricky face moves that catch many climbers off-guard. From the moment your fingers find the broken crack system that arcs upward along the sun-dappled granite, you realize this isn’t a straightforward pitch. The rock’s texture offers reliable friction, but the moves near the top push your balance and commitment as the crack fades and you reach for an improbable right-leaning edge.

The final lip demands a precise undercling move that feels more like a 5.10 crux than the given rating suggests. The subtle difficulty here stems from the route’s reliance on body tension and perfect positioning with little recovery. It's a move that tests not just physical skill but mental focus, making the climb memorable well after you’ve lowered off. This challenge is amplified by the "R" rating, an alert that protecting the route can be nervy—spots for pro are limited, mostly up to one inch, requiring careful piece selection and patience.

Anchorage is handled by a shared two-bolt anchor set approximately ten feet below the cliff’s summit. The bolts offer security for the belayer or a rappel option, but the sustained steeper climbing below means you should be confident with runouts on this pitch. While the climb’s length is short—just a single pitch—the experience is dense with tactical decisions and movement precision.

Iris Slab’s position in the Mammoth Lakes area means that access is generally straightforward and well worth the journey. The approach rolls through open forest with a gentle incline, offering a moment of calm before the intensity of the face. It’s best to tackle Groovin' in cooler morning hours when the slab is blanketed in shade, as sweltering sun can sap your grip and stamina.

For those looking to push limits on Sierra’s granitic walls with a route that balances gear wisdom and technical choreography, Groovin' is a compelling choice. However, this isn’t an ideal lead for beginners or anyone hesitant to manage risk—the solo warning underscores how quickly exposure rises if things go wrong. Ensuring proper footwear for friction, bringing pro sets up to one inch, and having a solid plan for retreat will bring focus and confidence.

Groovin’ offers the kind of climbing that sticks with you: a dance along granite, where every move counts and the landscape’s quiet power surrounds you. Climbing here means reading both the rock and your own limits while enjoying one of California’s underrated crags, poised just beyond the bustle of Mammoth Lakes. It’s a snapshot of trad climbing’s raw spirit—technical, a little edgy, and deeply rewarding for those ready to groove.

Climber Safety

This route features limited pro placements with significant runout, especially near the top where protection is sparse. The rock’s steeper sections below the anchor increase exposure. Soloing the route is strongly discouraged due to potential fall consequences.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach early for cooler temps and better friction on the slab.

Bring a small rack focused on micro cams and stoppers up to 1 inch.

Be prepared for runouts—maintain composure during unprotected sections.

Check anchor condition before committing to the rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating accurately reflects the route's tricky protection and the physical challenge of the top crux. While the moves feel more challenging than a typical 5.8, especially the final undercling over the lip, the rating correctly advises climbers to exercise caution. This climb demands a steady head and solid footwork, especially when compared to other moderate Sierra Eastside routes that offer more generous protection.

Gear Requirements

Protection is primarily thin pro up to 1 inch. The two-bolt anchor is shared with the route 'Sting', positioned about 10 feet below the cliff top, offering rappel or top belay options.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Groovin' and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
crack climbing
runout
single pitch
granite
technical finish