"Groom offers a sharp and direct 5.9 pitch at The Lion's Den with a technical crux on thin crimps and powerful flakes. Ideal for climbers seeking a focused, short sport climb in the heart of Colorado's rugged Estes Park Valley."
Carved into the stark verticality of The Lion’s Den, Groom presents a focused challenge for climbers craving solid sport routes in Colorado’s Estes Park Valley. This short, single-pitch climb stretches about 60 feet, starting just east of a conspicuous flake wedged tightly between Wedding Rock and a low fin to the south. From the first hold, your fingers engage with large flakes that demand precise movement and steady balance. As you ascend, these robust features gradually transform into slim crimps, introducing a sustained and vertical crux that tests finger strength and technique near the second bolt. This mid-route tightening is where climbers find their rhythm or face a few tense moments — the line demands deliberate control without offering much rest.
After surmounting the key crux, the climb eases slightly, merging with the approach to the adjacent Bride route. This final stretch carries you reliably to a shared two-bolt anchor, where relief comes not only in the form of solid gear but also from a wide, rewarding view of Big Thompson Canyon below. The pared-down length of Groom means it fits well into a half-day’s climbing session or as part of a multi-pitch warm-up on a crisp morning.
The protection system features four bolts leading to a two-bolt anchor, with the last bolt and top station shared with the Bride route just to the left. This configuration ensures a straightforward lead with safe clipping options but calls for steady pace and focus, especially around the crux. Access to The Lion’s Den involves a short approach through Big Thompson Canyon’s rugged folds, where mixed pine and granite surfaces signal you’re in climbing country and nature’s quiet watch.
This route shines in spring through fall, when dry rock and stable conditions prevail. Early in the day or late afternoon, the wall’s orientation grants cool shade that prevents holds from overheating in the summer sun. Footwear with precise edging ability enhances your grip on the varying flakes and thin crimps, while a moderate amount of chalk helps keep fingers dry and reliable through the crux. Hydration is key—Big Thompson Canyon’s dry air can sap energy faster than expected.
For climbers seeking a solid 5.9 that pairs technical moves with the broad, open feel of Estes Park’s rock face, Groom offers an accessible entry point paired with authentic granite climbing. It’s a no-frills route that emphasizes clean movement, mental focus, and efficient gear management over length or complexity. Perfect for sport climbers polishing their technique or trad climbers eager to sample sport climbing on familiar territory.
While the bolt protection is well-maintained, the thin crimps require careful clipping and deliberate movement to avoid falls. The shared anchor can be busy during peak times, so communicate clearly with your climbing partner. The approach includes uneven trail sections—watch your footing arriving and departing.
Approach The Lion's Den via the Big Thompson Canyon trailhead—expect a 15-minute hike on rocky, uneven terrain.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs deliver cooler rock temperatures and reduce midday sun exposure.
Use climbing shoes with precise edging to navigate flakes and thin crimps confidently.
Bring sufficient water—Big Thompson Canyon can be dry, and the short route calls for focused effort.
Four bolts anchored by a two-bolt station, with the final bolt and anchor shared with the adjacent Bride route. This setup requires standard sport climbing quickdraws and a harness suitable for top rope and lead climbing.
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