"Grimy Slimy challenges with a gritty, left-then-right slanting finger and hand crack combo, topped by a short face climb secured by one shared bolt. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a raw, tactile route in the Big Bear Lake area."
Grimy Slimy offers a raw, edgy introduction to trad climbing in the San Bernardino Mountains, where grit and patience meet in a compact 50-foot route. The climb starts with a left-slanting finger crack, refusing any pretense of cleanliness as it challenges your hand and footwork with a rough texture that demands respect. Transitioning smoothly into a right-slanting hand crack, the route shifts rhythm, calling for precise body positioning to navigate the dirty but engaging crack system. The final section moves onto a short face climb, protected by a single bolt, ending at anchors shared with the adjacent Welcome to the Pinnacles route. This bolt adds a bit of security but doesn’t diminish the adventure’s reliance on solid gear placements up to three inches, anchoring your trust in traditional protection.
The environment surrounding Grimy Slimy pushes the climber to tune into the subtle cues of the rock—specks of quartz catching the sun, patches of moss whispering of recent rains, and the occasional call of mountain birds stirring the air. The approach wades through the diverse vertical layers of the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, where rough textures and evolving rock features contrast with the broader panorama of Big Bear Lake nestled to the north.
Though the route’s name reflects its gritty, unpolished nature, the climbing quality has room to improve, especially as more climbers frequent this line and brush away the surface detritus. In the meantime, Grimy Slimy demands circumspection in your gear selection and respect for the terrain’s raw character. It’s a perfect short climb for those who appreciate crack climbing fundamentals peppered with a bit of dirt and challenge.
Given its single pitch and manageable length, tackling Grimy Slimy fits well into a half-day climbing excursion with enough light to explore nearby routes. Planning ahead is crucial: sturdy shoes with solid edging, a rack optimized for finger- to hand-sized protection, and an awareness of the rock’s current state will smooth your climb. Keep an eye on weather patterns in the San Bernardinos to avoid slick surfaces and to catch the best seasonal windows, typically when the rock is dry and temperatures moderate.
In essence, Grimy Slimy isn’t about polished perfection—it’s about embracing the honest, tactile experience of trad climbing. This route invites climbers to engage directly with rock that has its own rugged personality, encouraging a pragmatic, hands-on approach to adventure.
Watch for loose rock and dirt within the crack; clean placements carefully to avoid slippage. The shared bolt near the top is solid but should not be your sole point of protection as the rock quality varies.
Wear climbing shoes with good edging for delicate face moves near the top.
Bring a set of cams, particularly in sizes ranging from finger to three inches.
Approach via the Pinnacles South trailhead; expect about 15 minutes on uneven footing.
Best climbed in dry conditions—wet cracks get slippery and hazardous.
Standard trad rack up to 3 inches is essential, with gear placements throughout the crack system. The single bolt near the top offers some security but don't rely on it exclusively.
Upload your photos of Grimy Slimy and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.