Grillmair's Chimneys stands as a foundational climb on Alberta's Yamnuska, a towering limestone masterpiece in the Bow Valley. This traditional route traces a path of history and challenge, carved into the mountain's steep face where first ascenders once improvised with nylon ropes and scattered pins—turning a casual scramble into a pioneering multi-pitch ascent. Today, it offers a compelling blend of accessible adventure and alpine grit, perfect for climbers stepping into the realm of traditional alpine routes.

Approaching the climb, the low-angle terrain shifts quickly to exposed chimneys and crack systems that invite steady hands and heads focused on route-finding. From the outset, the initial scramble up 20 meters of 4th/5th class terrain warms the body and sharpens the senses, leading to the real climbing adventure. The first pitch climbs blocks and ledges using solid cracks and fixed pins to reach a spacious belay ledge, offering a moment of respite and a chance to absorb the grandeur of the Bow Valley framed by rugged peaks.

As the route progresses, the chimneys command attention — those vertical corridors of rock push and pull the climber, demanding balance, careful footwork, and some tactical decision-making. Following the weaknesses trending left across several moderate pitches, climbers are encouraged to stay within these chimneys whenever possible, as the adjacent face sections present a stiffer challenge. Multiple belays are found on large ledges, none permanently fixed, requiring climbers to anchor thoughtfully with their own traditional gear.

One of the defining moments arrives on pitch six, where the climbing tightens to 5.6+, and the face offers two small cracks that require precise moves. This section warns against complacency—slips are a real hazard here, particularly as the rock texture demands respect. Higher still, the corners and slabs above beckon with a broken, fractured style of climbing that tests endurance but rewards with sweeping views over the valley below.

The final pitch dives into the heart of the chimney and cave system. Fixed pins punctuate the slab before you enter the narrow chimney, climbing past a prominent chockstone and moving steadily upward through increasingly tight spaces. The chimney insists on steady, committed climbing, ending with a somewhat claustrophobic top-out through a small hole—a fitting finale that reminds you why traditional protection and route reading are vital for safety and success.

Grillmair’s Chimneys thrives in the snow-free months; wet or icy conditions transform these pitches into a different beast altogether. Climbers must carry a full trad rack including standard gear supplemented by screamers to back up the many fixed pins that may not always inspire confidence. Since none of the belays come fixed, expect to build solid anchors along the way.

Yamnuska’s granite crests draw climbers hungry for classic alpine experiences close to the city, with easy access but a tangible sense of wilderness. The climb’s length—roughly 1000 feet across eight varied pitches—makes it manageable in a day while offering enough sustained climbing to demand concentration and skill.

If you’re planning your ascent, start early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-drenched face, and wear sturdy footwear that handles both scrambling and crack climbing. Hydrate thoroughly and carry weather-appropriate layers; the mountain’s moods change quickly.

As you negotiate each chimney and ledge, listen for the mountain around you—the faint rush of wind through the cracks, the echo of distant birds, and the subtle, reassuring scrape of your boots against time-worn rock. Grillmair’s Chimneys offers not just a climb but a conversation with one of Alberta’s most iconic summits, where adventure waits in every crack and chimney you ascend.