Greenwood-Boles stands as one of the earliest testaments to bold climbing on the North face of Mount Edith,etched into the rugged granite of Banff National Park, Alberta. This classic nine-pitch trad route stretches nearly 1000 feet across a line that demands patience, keen route-finding, and steady nerves. From the first move up a commanding left-facing corner to the final push over bulges and ledges, the climb charts a complex path through fractured slabs and corners that challenge both skill and judgment. Expect long stretches where protection thins, forcing reliance on solid technique rather than gear placement, as you navigate runouts of up to 15 meters on 5.8 and 5.9 terrain littered with loose and questionable rock.

The approach launches via a striking 50-meter corner that climbs toward a ledge slicing across the face, a crux in itself due to the scarcity of obvious protection. Following the ledge keeps you on a similar elevation for an extended traverse, where fractured stone tests your balance more than your strength. From there, the route ventures right then left through a sequence of ramping corners, grooves, and chimneys, each demanding precise footwork and situational awareness to avoid unstable holds.

Midway, a critical pitch warns of tricky choices: while the guidebook directs a left traverse around a roof into a crack system, the alternate right path offers easier holds but brittle rock, heightening risk. Opting for the intended line reduces exposure to loose sections but requires confident laybacking and careful placements in narrow cracks.

As you ascend into the upper faces, large party ledges provide rare moments to catch your breath amidst otherwise continuous climbing. The final pitches present a test of resolve, negotiating vertical bulges with limited pro and the constant presence of runouts that sap confidence but sharpen focus. From the col at the summit, the descent demands equal care, involving a series of rappels down the west couloir on sparse anchors. Anchors may require augmentation with personal gear, making preparation essential.

This route is not for the faint of heart or those unfamiliar with alpine trad discipline. The rock’s variable quality, long unprotected stretches, and route-finding ambiguity mean climbers need to bring a comprehensive rack—cams ranging to a #3, doubles of small to mid-size cams, wires, and lots of extendable draws—to safely navigate awkward placements. The wilderness setting of Banff National Park rewards this commitment with sweeping mountain vistas, crisp alpine air, and a glimpse at the early era of Canadian big-wall climbing.

Greenwood-Boles is a hard-earned journey into the teeth of the mountain’s north side. It offers a connection to climbing history and a true test for those ready to read the rock, trust their feet, and handle the sustained demands of a long, technical aid and free climb. If your goal is a classic line soaked in grit and challenge, this route delivers an authentic experience on one of Banff’s most storied granite faces.