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Great Full Body Chimney Climb in Dance Hall of the Dead

Lyons, Colorado United States
chimney crack
body-width squeeze
trad gear
top rope ready
single pitch
moderate difficulty
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Great Full Body
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Great Full Body offers a hands-on chimney climb that challenges your technique without overwhelming difficulty. Situated in the dramatic South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, this route blends firm rock with focused movement, making it a must-try for trad climbers seeking a compact yet rewarding ascent."

Great Full Body Chimney Climb in Dance Hall of the Dead

Carving its way through the rugged walls of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, the Great Full Body stands out as a compelling chimney climb that balances approachable difficulty with solid protection. This single-pitch route stretches roughly 60 feet, moving through a body-width chimney that dares you to test your comfort in squeezing and stemming. The rock here is steep but welcoming, presenting just enough features to make progress manageable without robbing you of a satisfying challenge. Climbers will find themselves methodically working upward, using occasional holds to pivot and wiggle through the narrow section, where the rock seems to press in with a quiet insistence.

The approach to this climb places you in the spacious yet rugged Dance Hall of the Dead—a canyon carved by time with towering granite walls offering stunning views and a rugged beauty that demands respect. Starting just right of the more trafficked Grateful Head route, the Great Full Body chimney requires focus and a steady rhythm. The climb leads to a natural fork near the top; veering left here avoids a tricky cluster of stacked rocks and guides you to a set of bolted anchors shared with Grateful Head.

Protection on this route is straightforward. A light rack of cams and nuts makes leading accessible, though many climbers opt for top-roping from the established anchors. The rock quality lends confidence to placements, with the chimney walls offering secure jams and holds for gear. Expect to rely heavily on your chimney and stemming techniques, making this climb a great test of fundamental trad climbing skills.

Lyons, Colorado, just a short drive from Denver, serves as the perfect base camp for this adventure. The South Fork canyon beckons with scenic beauty and moderate access trails, allowing you to combine your climb with a refreshing hike that wakes your senses to pine scents, the distant call of mountain birds, and the faint rush of St. Vrain Creek below.

Timing your visit is essential. Early morning or late afternoon climbs help avoid the heat baked onto sun-exposed faces, especially in summer. The canyon’s orientation provides some natural shade but can warm quickly under the high alpine sun. Always check weather forecasts; sudden mountain storms can reshape the day abruptly.

Preparing for the climb means packing sturdy approach shoes for the rocky, uneven trail and bringing sufficient water. While not a long haul, the hike through the canyon can be demanding with elevation changes and loose scree sections. For safety, wear a helmet—falling debris is a possibility—and double-check your anchor setup if top-roping.

Great Full Body offers an authentic Colorado trad experience: it’s no-frills, technically engaging, and surrounded by the grand quiet of the canyon. It’s a route that rewards steady effort and technique more than brute power, providing a testbed for chimney climbing that’s accessible yet fulfilling. Whether you’re leading with a light rack or enjoying a top-rope day, this climb puts you in close conversation with the rock, demanding movement precision and a measured pace to find your way up the tight squeeze. Unearth your inner climber here amid the wild grandeur of the St. Vrain Canyons.

Climber Safety

Rock quality is solid but expect some small loose blocks near the top forks; a helmet is strongly recommended. The narrow chimney can create tight spots where a fall carries risk, so maintain controlled movement and keep protection well placed.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail features uneven, rocky footing—wear sturdy hiking shoes.

Bring plenty of water; desert sun can quickly dehydrate climbers.

Aim for early morning or late afternoon to avoid peak sun exposure on the face.

Double-check anchors if top-roping to ensure safety on shared bolt setups.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels true to standard Colorado trad difficulty, with the chimney’s squeeze adding a physical crux that demands body tension over raw power. Compared to nearby classics in the South Fork, Great Full Body offers a refreshing test of chimney techniques without pushing into hard technical territory.

Gear Requirements

Lead with a standard light rack of cams and nuts sized for chimney placements. Top-rope is easily set up from bolts and anchors atop Grateful Head to the immediate right.

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Tags

chimney crack
body-width squeeze
trad gear
top rope ready
single pitch
moderate difficulty