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Greasy Kid Stuff: A Technical Test on Suicide Rock’s North Face

Idyllwild, California United States
thin crack
slab climbing
runout
micro-nuts
fist crack
Tahquitz
California trad
Length: 130 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Greasy Kid Stuff
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Greasy Kid Stuff is a technical trad climb griping the slabs of Suicide Rock’s North Face, where thin cracks and runout slabs offer a demanding, thoughtful line. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills and gear finesse on a short but intense route."

Greasy Kid Stuff: A Technical Test on Suicide Rock’s North Face

Greasy Kid Stuff demands a sharp eye and steady hands, offering a challenging 130-foot trad climb etched into the North Face of Suicide Rock. This route threads delicate thin cracks and flakes, ascending a slab that stretches between the Guillotine and Graham Crackers. The first 80 feet lead you through a sequence of fingery moves culminating at a short fist crack, where the real challenge begins. Climbers face a demanding, sparsely protectable seam that tests gear placement skills and nerve, requiring micro-nuts and meticulous attention. A shallow blue Alien-sized pin scar signals the next protection opportunity before the route continues with a 20-foot slab pitch—the route’s crux—that demands precise footwork balanced with boldness.

Above, the slab becomes more contrived, veering around a short traverse to the left to reach slightly easier rock with more features. For climbers chasing the full experience, sticking to the centerline of this slab provides the purest line through technical face climbing. Protection is a careful blend tailored to the route’s nuances: nuts and small cams secure the lower sections converging on a #3 or #4 Camalot for that tough fist crack. Beyond that, micro-nuts and a blue Alien-sized piece cover the runout to the anchors, emphasizing the importance of bringing a versatile rack.

Located high in the rugged landscape of Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks, this climb demands respect not just for its physical movements but also for its mental game. The slab’s slickness and the runout nature of the upper pitch push even skilled climbers to remain sharp and deliberate. Whether you're arriving eager to add a solid 5.10a R to your tick list or looking to hone your crack skills in one of California’s classic trad areas, Greasy Kid Stuff provides a balanced dose of technical climbing and strategic protection placements.

Access begins from the established paths leading to Suicide Rock’s North Face—expect a moderate approach, where scrub pine and desert brush frame your ascent preparations. Timing your climb earlier in the day offers better temperatures and shadows to cool the slab, while late afternoon sun can bake the rock, increasing friction but also the challenge. After topping out, a straightforward rappel brings you back to solid ground, leaving time to soak in expansive views of the surrounding desert basin.

This route tests more than your physical endurance—it challenges your gear management and patience under pressure, perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their trad skills in a scenic slice of California’s climbing heartland.

Climber Safety

The upper slab features runout sections with patchy protection; climbers should bring micro-nuts and be prepared for unprotected sequences that require precise movement and mental control. Fall potential is significant here, so test gear placements carefully and commit thoughtfully.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat buildup on exposed slabs.

Bring a full rack of micro-nuts and small cams for optimal protection.

Focus on precise footwork on slab sections to conserve energy.

Prepare for a single rappel descent; check your gear before starting.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.10a R, Greasy Kid Stuff’s rating feels stiff due to the protection challenges on the upper seam and slab crux. The sustained technical moves on thin cracks and the sparse gear placements elevate the subjective difficulty beyond the number, demanding composure and clean technique reminiscent of other slab routes in the area like Guillotine.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes small cams and nuts for the lower thin cracks, a #3 or #4 Camalot for the fist crack, and micro nuts and a blue Alien for protecting the challenging upper slab seam. Bring a versatile rack focusing on smaller placements due to sparse pro options.

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Tags

thin crack
slab climbing
runout
micro-nuts
fist crack
Tahquitz
California trad