"Grape Nuts is a two-pitch trad climb on East Tower’s granite offering a balance of face and crack climbing. With solid protection and a moderate approach, it’s a rewarding choice for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills amid the rugged Eastern Sierra."
Grape Nuts offers a focused two-pitch trad climb set on the rugged granite of East Tower, perched within the less-traveled Sagehen Summit Area along California’s Sierra Eastside. From the moment you step onto the rock, the climb demands attentiveness: starting just to the left of a prominent right-facing corner, the route challenges with a textured face peppered by bolts and intersecting cracks. As you ascend, the granite’s coarse surface rubs against your hands with steady friction, while horizontal cracks invite thoughtful gear placements and strategic moves.
Pitch one pushes up past a handful of bolts, leading you toward a clean crack system where traditional protection shines—expect placements up to 2.5 inches in diameter. The movement remains accessible but requires precise footwork and steady balancing on face holds that test your command of friction climbing. The exposure gently increases, granting glimpses of the surrounding Eastern Hills that extend toward the Sierra Nevada’s drier eastern slopes.
The second pitch continues upward on face holds interrupted by horizontal cracks, negotiating the rock’s subtle features until reaching a secure belay stance. Here, the climber benefits from solid anchors designed for a rope rappel or a careful walk-off that skirts right along the ledges. The descent is straightforward if navigated with care, but note that the 200-foot rappel demands proper rope management and attention to rope drag against sharp edges.
East Tower’s granite compels respect with its firm texture and the quiet wilderness surrounding the route. The approach is moderate, with forested trails giving way to exposed granite slabs where the sun’s warmth intensifies mid-morning. Climbers can expect a balance of shaded sections early in the day, with increasing direct sunlight as the afternoon progresses. Early season or late spring climbs benefit from cooler temperatures, while summer ascents risk heat buildup on the rock and the approach trail.
Preparation hinges on solid trad gear up to 2.5 inches, supplemented by awareness of the bolts placed along the route. Given the route's moderate length and two-pitch format, climbers should pack efficiently but include hydration and sun protection for the exposed trail sections. The relatively low star rating reflects the route’s straightforward nature but don’t let that deter you—the fun comes in the clarity of line and the flowing rhythm of crack and face climbing atop one of the Sierra’s quieter granite features.
Whether you’re stepping into a first multi-pitch climb or seeking a classic 5.9 trad line in a setting that rewards focused movement and smart gear placement, Grape Nuts offers a satisfying outing framed by clean rock and open skies. The ease of descent and moderate approach make this an inviting climb to add to your California Eastside adventures.
Watch for sharp edges near belay stations during rappel; rope protection is essential. The descent requires careful rappelling or a tricky walk-off that can be slippery after wet weather. Carry appropriate gear and double-check anchors before committing.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed rock sections.
Bring gloves or tape for crack protection, as some sections can be sharp.
Double-check anchors before rappelling to ensure a smooth descent.
Hydrate well and carry sun protection due to limited midday shade.
Seven bolts are placed along the route to supplement traditional gear placements that accommodate pro up to 2.5 inches. Standard trad rack with mid-size cams and nuts will cover the protection needs comfortably.
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