"Granola Crunch is a compact, technical trad climb on the eastern slopes of the Sierra, mixing steady slab and crack moves with a demanding lieback crux. Perfect for climbers seeking an engaging single pitch with solid protection and a memorable finish."
Granola Crunch offers a focused taste of Sierra Eastside trad climbing that challenges both technique and mental poise over a compact 115-foot pitch. Beginning just to the left of the popular Frosted Flakes route, this climb sets a deliberate rhythm with steady slab and crack sections that test balance and subtle footwork. The rock here is a textured canvas of moderate angles where each move demands precision rather than brute force. As you ascend, the route maintains an even pace, allowing you to find a comfortable flow in the lower two-thirds. But don’t let the measured start fool you—the climb saves its pep for the finale. About fifty feet up, the line delivers a short, sharp jolt of difficulty: a 10-foot lieback stretch that unfolds in two distinct parts, both rated at 5.10a. The first move invites a solid stance protection spot, where you can stop, steady your breathing, and size up the bouldery finish ahead. This final sequence requires commitment, blending strength and technique to twist past the crux hold and reach the anchors.
Gear up with your traditional rack, focusing on placements up to 2 inches, as the protection is reliable but demands careful spotting, especially near the lip where the anchor rests just below the top edge. In terms of terrain, the climb’s slab transitions into a crack system that guides your hands and feet seamlessly before pushing through more aggressive features toward the top. The rock’s texture offers enough friction to keep your confidence steady on the slab moves, while the lieback section tests your upper body resilience and foot jams.
Approaching the climb means a short walk into Benton Crags from the nearby trailhead in the Eastern Hills area. The access trail is manageable, threading through sparse vegetation and offering glimpses of the wider Sierra range as you near the base. Early morning or late afternoon climbs are ideal to avoid the peak sun hours, as the route faces east and can warm quickly under a California sun. Weather can impact friction, so picking a dry day will enhance your grip and overall experience.
While Granola Crunch may not boast the popularity or star rating of neighboring lines, it rewards focused climbers looking for a technical challenge within a manageable pitch. The slab and crack climbing engages your feet and hands in equal measure, while the lieback crux ensures a memorable finish requiring both mental and physical resolve. Whether you’re refining your trad skills or seeking a compact objective with distinct moves, this route fits the bill with its balance of straightforward protection and subtle technical demands.
Prepare with solid trad gear, arriving ready to pace yourself through the initial slab and crack sequence so you can conserve energy for the final bouldery stretch. With only one pitch to manage, the descent is simple and can be done by downclimbing carefully or rappelling off the anchor. Always check the condition of the anchor and your gear before leaving the top. Granola Crunch invites climbers who appreciate the blend of nimble footwork, gear savvy, and a punchy finish to come explore this under-the-radar Sierra crag.
While the protection is generally solid, the anchor at the top is positioned just below the lip, so approach with care to avoid rope drag or gear shifting. The slab section can become slick with moisture, so avoid climbing after rain or heavy dew. The approach has some loose rock sections—wear sturdy shoes and watch your footing.
Start early or late in the day to avoid direct sun on the east-facing wall.
Dry conditions are crucial; slab friction suffers when damp.
Inspect your anchor carefully before rappelling; gear is solid but conservative.
The approach trail is straightforward but watch for loose rocks near the base.
Bring traditional gear with a focus on placements up to 2 inches. The anchors are located just below the lip and can be protected with gear. Expect solid placements through slab and crack sections, with more precise attention needed near the crux lieback finish.
Upload your photos of Granola Crunch and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.