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Gorilla Tape at Mad Cow Wall: A Compact Sport Climb with a Technical Crux

Big Bear Lake, California United States
crack climbing
slab
technical crux
sport climbing
short route
Big Bear
east-facing
bolt anchors
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Gorilla Tape
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Gorilla Tape is a sharp, 60-foot sport climb on Mad Cow Wall demanding precise crack and slab climbing skills. Its compact nature and technical opening make it an ideal route for those ready to test balance and technique in Big Bear's rugged setting."

Gorilla Tape at Mad Cow Wall: A Compact Sport Climb with a Technical Crux

Gorilla Tape at Mad Cow Wall offers a focused yet thought-provoking sport climb perched on one of Big Bear Lake’s most distinctive faces. This 60-foot route demands attention right from the ground, where the first 10 feet present a tight crux that tests both technique and nerve. The climb begins following a striking left-slanting crack that transitions into an offbeat, textured face. This feature catches the eye and requires careful moves, gradually shifting the pressure from fingers to feet. The low-angled slab above feels inviting but hides a subtle danger: a fall here risks hitting the rock below due to the gentle incline. Caution is essential as you approach the "gorilla's head," a memorable bulge that lends the route its name. Reaching across to clip the final bolt here can feel exposed, with a delicate balance between steadiness and momentum. Beyond the climbing itself, the rock's surface bears the marks of weather and wear, lending it a raw, honest character that adds to the route’s appeal.

Located within the Central Pinnacles of Holcomb Valley, the Mad Cow Wall stands within the San Bernardino Mountains, boasting enough isolation to feel like a getaway without demanding a full wilderness expedition. The approach navigates a short, moderate trail through forested terrain that hums softly with mountain breezes and pine needles underfoot. The wall faces east, catching the morning sun and offering shade as the afternoon cools, making early starts ideal for a comfortable climb.

Protection comes in the form of six well-spaced bolts secured to single ring anchors, providing solid security despite some awkward cleaning challenges due to the anchor’s position. The route’s brevity and bolt spacing invite climbers who enjoy a compact, intense experience without the complexity of multi-pitch logistics. Given the route's stake in technique over sheer endurance, Gorilla Tape is an excellent test piece for those looking to refine slab and crack climbing skills in a real-world setting.

Prepare with tape gloves or finger taping if you anticipate squeezing the crack, and opt for shoes with moderate stiffness to support edging on the slab. Hydration is straightforward thanks to the easy hike in, but bring sunscreen for the exposed sections, especially late morning. This route rewards precision and calm under pressure, offering a concentrated slice of Big Bear’s climbing variety that can be savored in under an hour.

For climbers seeking a short but thoughtful challenge in a scenic mountain setting, Gorilla Tape blends adventure with practicality, capturing the spirit of sport climbing in the San Bernardino wilderness. The area’s scenic ups and downs, combined with the route’s technical demands, make it as much a mental puzzle as a physical climb.

Climber Safety

Falling from the crux or on the slab above carries a risk of hitting the rock due to the low angle nature of the climb. Take care to clip bolts securely and avoid dynamic moves near the start. The anchor's awkward placement can make cleaning the climb tricky; plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and morning sun on the east-facing wall.

Use moderately stiff climbing shoes for optimal footing on the low-angle slab section.

Watch your foot placement carefully near the crux to avoid slips on the slab.

Prepare for a tricky anchor clean—backup gear or assistance might ease this step.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Gorilla Tape feels true to grade with a clearly defined crux right off the ground that demands precise movement and balance. While the slab above offers easier climbing, the potential for low-angle decking demands confidence and careful control. Compared to other Big Bear routes at this level, Gorilla Tape leans more technical than purely physical, rewarding skillful footwork rather than brute strength.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by six bolts leading to single ring anchors made from 1/2" bolts, necessitating careful cleaning especially around the anchor due to its awkward placement. Bring standard sport climbing quickdraws and consider tape for finger protection on the crack.

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Tags

crack climbing
slab
technical crux
sport climbing
short route
Big Bear
east-facing
bolt anchors