Gorilla Milk Direct offers a distinctive single-pitch trad climb at Castlewood Canyon State Park, just a short drive south of Denver. This 40-foot route takes you straight up the clean face behind a striking tree that marks its position, requiring steady technique and a solid approach to protection. The climb challenges its 5.9 rating with moves that demand focus and precise footwork, making it feel a bit stiffer than the grade suggests for those comfortable at this level. The approach is straightforward but pay attention to gear choices: flexible cams and tri-cams fit perfectly in the route’s pockets and edges, while wider pieces can anchor safely above for belay setups.

Castlewood Canyon itself offers a rugged outcrop of golden sandstone, contrasting vividly with the open prairie below. As you ascend Gorilla Milk Direct, the rock’s textured surface invites careful placement, testing your balance and finger strength. The wall faces east, catching morning light and providing cooler shade by afternoon—a perfect window for an early climb when the sun’s warmth is just starting to reach the canyon floor. Be ready for a somewhat airy top-out, with exposure increasing near the belay.

Protection requires thoughtful preparation. There’s no reliable natural anchor close by—no substantial trees or solid bolts line the route directly—so long slings and possibly an extra rope will prove invaluable to rig a secure and comfortable top rope or traditional anchor. An existing 1/4-inch bolt off-route offers limited support but is not positioned ideally for the climb itself. Fortunately, a two-bolt anchor at the top allows for confident belaying and descent. The descent is a quick rappel from these fixed points; be cautious on the approach and return to the trailhead where uneven ground and loose rocks can catch you off guard.

For anyone planning to send Gorilla Milk Direct, hydration and solid footwear are vital, especially when temperatures rise—Castlewood Canyon’s exposed walls can amplify the heat. Early morning ascents will reward you with cooler air and softer light, allowing full engagement with the climb’s texture and rhythm. It’s a gritty, straightforward route with just enough challenge to keep things interesting without overwhelming less-experienced climbers aiming to step into the trad world.

With 35 votes affirming its appeal, Gorilla Milk Direct stands as a compelling choice for trad climbers ready to test their gear placements and technique outside the city but within easy reach of Denver’s vibrant climbing scene. This route invites you to read the rock carefully, trust your gear, and savor the gritty sandstone as you push yourself up a face that demands your full attention and rewards with a satisfying line and views that open to the sweeping canyon below.