"Gorilla Dance is a brief but technical sport climb perched on a narrow north-facing wall near Dragonlance in Big Bear. It demands precise footwork and careful bolt management, offering a focused dose of 5.10a climbing for those ready to navigate its exposed cruxes."
Gorilla Dance stakes its claim on a sharp, narrow north-facing wall just fifteen feet right of the more established Dragonlance route. This single-pitch sport climb demands both focus and finesse, making it a compelling venture for those seeking a short but technical challenge in the rugged San Bernardino Mountains. The route begins close to a small pine, its needles gently brushing the first hold, reminding climbers that nature often plays a subtle but present role here. The first bolt seems almost ornamental, a mere formality before the real test: a powerful boulder move that launches the climber upwards. This section, compact but demanding, requires careful footwork and body tension, setting the tone for the route.
Beyond this initial crux, the climb steadies onto a ledge, though the exposure remains tangible with a second bolt positioned just before an awkward landing zone that warns of a potentially harmful fall. Staying balanced on this ledge is critical; a misplaced step could lead to a quick drop onto uneven ground below. The third bolt guides the ascent past a vertical headwall where the holds thin out and the moves become more sustained. The final stretch is a mix of strength and precision, culminating at the anchors perched atop a ledge that offers a moment to breathe and take in the surrounding pine-scented air and distant mountain silhouettes.
Though Gorilla Dance offers an approachable 5.10a rating, the bolting quality and proximity to fall hazards place an extra layer of seriousness on the climb. It’s not a route for carefree falls; instead, it rewards steady nerves and clear judgment. For climbers familiar with Big Bear’s limestone faces, this route sits just beside classic lines yet stands apart with its intimate scale and raw edges, a brief dance with exposure and technique focused tightly into 40 feet of climbing.
Approaching Dragonlance Wall involves a manageable hike through forested slopes peppered with fir and manzanita, creating a quiet prelude to the climb that sharpens the senses. Climbers should arrive prepared with rock shoes suited for small edges, a harness fitted for clipping bolts comfortably, and enough chalk to manage the skin-sapping friction of the crux bouldering move. While the climb itself is short, the mental demands, particularly on fall awareness, make Gorilla Dance a route that commands respect and attention.
In the broader scheme of Big Bear’s diverse climbing collection, Gorilla Dance offers a compact experience rich with its own personality: a technical outing that pairs rugged natural surroundings with a tight-focus challenge. It’s an ideal choice for climbers wanting a quick push of adrenaline that leaves room for exploration across the multitude of routes lining the Dragonlance Wall and nearby sectors.
Falls near the second bolt and on the ledge below the headwall can result in ground impacts. Verify bolt placements before clipping and avoid unnecessary risk in the crux area to ensure safety. The rock is solid but the spacing entails careful clipping and controlled resting.
Approach via established trails from Big Bear Lake, expect about 20 minutes through forested terrain.
Wear stiff-soled shoes to hold small edges and manage the boulder crux effectively.
Check bolt integrity carefully before committing to moves near fall zones.
Avoid climbing after wet weather; the north-facing wall can remain damp and slick.
The route relies on four bolts and chain anchors. Expect straightforward clipping, but be alert to the limited protection in the crux boulder section. Bring standard sport draws and possibly extra tape to protect skin through the tight moves.
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