"Gorgeous at Mt. Gorgeous offers a crisp 60-foot climb combining slab flow with pocketed overhangs. Perfect for those seeking technical movement and an accessible introduction to the crags of Malibu Creek State Park."
Gorgeous at Mt. Gorgeous stands as a compelling introduction to the diverse climbing workouts found in Malibu Creek State Park. This single-pitch sport route, stretching 60 feet along a blunt arete, challenges climbers with a blend of slabby steps and overhanging pocketed face holds that invite a careful, tactile approach. From the very first moves along the left side of the slabby buttress, pockets invite a rhythmic pull sequence that pushes the body into delicate balance. Midway up, a carved recess provides a moment of respite and a subtle strategic pause before the crux: navigating a steep bulge that demands precise hand placements within a jumbled array of pockets. Pushing through this bulge, the route commands commitment and finesse—a test of controlled power and technique. The final slab leads up to a modern mussy hook anchor, allowing for clean and efficient top-outs.
Surrounded by the natural quietude of the Santa Monica Mountains, Gorgeous offers more than just technical moves. The rock catches and shifts sunlight, casting shadows that outline each pocket and seem to breathe with the day's changing light. The scent of chaparral mingles with the distant hum of the Los Angeles Basin below, grounding the climb in a surprisingly wild pocket of Southern California. The route’s moderate rating (5.10a) is approachable for climbers stepping beyond beginner routes but requires respect for its sustained pockets and the precise footwork needed on the lower slab.
Accessing Gorgeous involves a straightforward approach: the trailhead within Malibu Creek State Park serves as a gateway to a network of well-maintained paths that wind through oak groves and dry creek beds. The distance to the base is manageable, making this a prime choice for an afternoon session or as a warm-up before pushing harder lines nearby. Climbers should come prepared with sport gear compatible with the seven bolts protecting the climb, along with a harness clipped for the mussyhook anchor that stands ready on the right side at the top. Given the route’s exposure, timing your ascent to avoid the heat of midday enhances grip and comfort, with early morning or late afternoon providing cool, shaded conditions.
The broader climbing area of Malibu Creek State Park offers excellent variety—from steep overhangs to slab climbs—framed by sweeping vistas of the Santa Monica range and echoes of history at the nearby rock formations. Gorgeous captures this spirit with its seamless flow and pocket carving, making it an engaging line for climbers eager to refine technique while soaking in one of the region’s more accessible yet rewarding crags. Whether you’re curious about pocket climbing or seeking an inviting gateway into sport climbing here, Gorgeous delivers practical challenge with a brush of adventure.
Watch for exposure near the bulge, where slips could lead to swinging falls. While protection is ample with seven bolts, the crux requires confident pocket grabs. The slab below can feel slick when dusty, so careful foot placement is essential.
Start early or late in the day to avoid the afternoon sun heating up the rock.
Stick to shoes with sensitive edging for slabby footholds in the lower section.
Test pockets carefully before committing; some may be shallow but reliable.
Stay clipped into the mussyhook anchor for added safety and efficient top-out.
Seven bolts protect this route, complemented by a brand new mussyhook anchor to the right at the top, ensuring clean clipping and secure anchor setup.
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