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Goodrich to the Oasis: An Adventurous Trad Climb in Yosemite

Yosemite Valley, California United States
overgrown cracks
runout friction
multi-pitch
Yosemite trad
route-finding
seasonally wet
pitons
face climbing
Length: 1700 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
16
Location
Goodrich to the Oasis
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A sixteen-pitch Yosemite trad route that challenges climbers with runout slabs, overgrown cracks, and tricky route-finding. Goodrich to the Oasis blends technical climbing with raw adventure, culminating in a shaded ledge known as The Oasis."

Goodrich to the Oasis: An Adventurous Trad Climb in Yosemite

Goodrich to the Oasis invites climbers into a varied and demanding ascent along Yosemite’s less-traveled edges. Starting on the Right Side of Goodrich Pinnacle, this sixteen-pitch route blends runout friction moves with highly protected face climbing, demanding confident route-finding skills and a taste for adventure. The rock here wears the scars of seasons—overgrown cracks, pockets of loose stone, and patches dampened by seasonal moisture—forcing climbers to remain alert and adaptable. Lower pitches offer more solid, enjoyable climbing, while the upper pitches trend toward rougher terrain, where the thrill lies more in exploration than technical difficulty.

Located on the south side of Yosemite Valley within the grand stretch of Glacier Point Apron, the approach skirts through forested slopes that feed into granite faces exposed to the afternoon sun. The route’s orientation means morning starts are shaded, ideal for cooler climbing before the rock warms up. As the day advances, warm sunlight intensifies, making hydration and timing essential to avoid slipping on damp sections.

Pitch by pitch, the climb reveals its character. Early moves demand friction and careful footwork across slabby granite, punctuated by long traverses that challenge awareness as well as strength. Gear placements range from reliable bolt lines to subtle cams in overgrown cracks, requiring a full rack up to 3 inches and a good haul of slings to extend protection across wandering pitches. Occasional pitons—some fixed, others questionable—add both safety and complexity, requiring thorough inspection and sometimes creative backup.

Midway through, the line ascends a left-facing dihedral and negotiates roofs and splitter cracks, mixing bold climbing with technical steady hands. Beck's Bivy marks a welcome rest, a solid anchor point before transitioning into the final stretches. From here, the route loosens into easier fifth-class scrambling that becomes increasingly overgrown and mossy, where climbers must balance care with pace. The lush 'Oasis' near the summit feels like a reward, a rare pocket of shade and shelter surrounded by the demanding granite.

Retreat involves systematic rappels using two 60-meter ropes. Anchors vary in quality and age, so bringing webbing, cord, and a knife is imperative for cleaning and reinforcing old gear. Knot the rope ends securely: the long traverses and rope stretches on rappel demand extra caution. The descent is a puzzle itself—mapping the natural line back demands attention and planning to avoid getting stuck or dropping gear.

For those planning this trip, timing is key. Start early to beat the heat and avoid wet patches that can turn smooth granite slick. Bring sturdy approach shoes and climbing boots that hold well on shady, mossy terrain. Hydration and layered clothing are essential as the route transitions from cool shade into full sun exposure. Map your gear carefully: long slings reduce rope drag, while doubling up on small cams ensures safety in the overgrown sections.

In sum, Goodrich to the Oasis is an engaging test of traditional crack and face climbing skills wrapped in a rugged Yosemite setting that rewards persistent, careful climbing. It’s well suited to adventurous climbers who relish route-finding challenges and a mix of pitches that range from technical to exploratory. Expect less polished rock higher up, but embrace the wildness and isolation that make this route a true adventure beyond the popular walls.

Climber Safety

Take extra care with loose rock and overgrown cracks, particularly on upper pitches where protection may be sparse. Carefully inspect all pitons and bolts before weighting them. Descending requires careful anchor checks and rope management to avoid long rope stretcher issues.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches16
Length1700 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid climbing wet or slippery sections.

Wear sturdy shoes for the approach and tackle mossy, overgrown sections carefully.

Bring extra slings to reduce rope drag on traverses.

Tie knots in rope ends before rappelling to prevent losing ropes.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a PG13 rating suggests a climb that is technically moderate but with some mental challenges. Route-finding and runout sections increase risk beyond pure technical difficulty. The crux pitches feel appropriately rated with sustained moves, but be prepared for loose rock and inconsistent protection, especially higher up. Compared to local classic Yosemite starts, this route leans toward an adventurous, less polished style rather than clean sport climbing.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack up to 3 inches, with long slings for gear extension due to wandering pitches. Draws help on bolts and pitons scattered along the route. Webbing, cord, and a sharp knife are essential for cleaning old rappel tat. Two 60m ropes are required for retreat rappels.

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Tags

overgrown cracks
runout friction
multi-pitch
Yosemite trad
route-finding
seasonally wet
pitons
face climbing