HomeClimbingGood to the Last Drop

Good to the Last Drop

Twentynine Palms, California United States
shallow crack
sparse protection
bolt-led
desert granite
exposed
single pitch
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Good to the Last Drop
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Perched above a deep chasm on The Wall’s right side, 'Good to the Last Drop' delivers a compact but challenging 60-foot trad route. Sparse protection and bold moves demand sharp focus, making it a compelling pick for those comfortable in exposed desert granite."

Good to the Last Drop

Good to the Last Drop offers a gritty and focused trad experience perched high above a narrow chasm on The Wall’s right side in Joshua Tree National Park. The approach begins with a scramble over scattered granite blocks, setting the tone for a climb that demands both attention and respect from the first move. Once at the base, climbers face a demanding sequence to clip the initial bolt—its 3/8" diameter a firm reminder of the route's sparse protection and willingness to test nerves.

From there, the path ascends through a shallow crack and seam that offer limited holds and protection, requiring precise footwork and steady judgment. The route’s protective elements thin out noticeably, and the climber must rely on subtle edges and finger locks while navigating this exposed section. Two additional bolts, smaller at 1/4", mark critical points along the way but don’t fully alleviate the sense of exposure or responsibility for placing pro that fits up to 2.5".

As the crack fades, the final moves involve some bold climbing to reach the last bolt and then push past it to the top. The endgame tests mental stamina as much as physical ability, with a high consequence environment where every hold counts. The belay at the summit doesn’t come easy—arranging a secure anchor means moving well back from the edge and wrapping around to a hidden corner system. For those looking to descend, there is a walk-off to the climber’s right, though careful route-finding is essential to avoid loose terrain.

Though the route feels solid, it urgently calls for bolt replacement to boost safety, especially for less experienced leaders or those unused to marginal protection. This climb invites a careful approach, rewarding those who come equipped with solid gear judgment, steady nerves, and an appreciation for Joshua Tree’s distinct granite character. The dry desert air carries occasional gusts that seem to dare you onward, the rock warm underfoot in the morning sun but cooling rapidly as afternoon shadows stretch.

In this segment of The Wall, adventure meets calculation—a route that balances challenge and accessibility while offering a raw, authentic Joshua Tree experience. The climb is just long enough at 60 feet to deliver a compact, intense jolt of climbing without losing focus. Whether you're prepping for your first trad lead or shaking off the rust, Good to the Last Drop demands respect and leaves a lasting impression.

Climber Safety

Protection is minimal and bolts are aging; no casual leads without thorough inspection and solid trad gear. The belay station is awkward and best avoided near the edge, requiring careful anchor setup. Loose rock near the approach and descent areas add an extra layer of caution.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach via scramble over granite blocks—wear sturdy shoes with good traction.

Bring a rack with a good range of cams up to 2.5" for the sparse crack protection.

Plan to build your belay well back from the edge around the corner system to ensure safety.

Descend via the walk-off to the climber’s right; route-finding is crucial to avoid unstable ground.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 R rating reflects a comparison route with technical moves that stand out due to limited protection. The runout sections require steady nerves and confidence, especially through the shallow crack and near the top. While the grade feels consistent with standard 5.9 moves, the R rating adds psychological weight that can challenge even seasoned climbers familiar with Joshua Tree.

Gear Requirements

The climb requires placing protection up to 2.5" with three bolts incorporated along the route, although the current bolt placements are dated and could be improved for better security.

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Tags

shallow crack
sparse protection
bolt-led
desert granite
exposed
single pitch