HomeClimbingGood To Be A Gaper

Good To Be A Gaper: The Longest Easy Route at Big Chief

Truckee,California ,United States
long route
trad protection
crack climbing
roof traverse
exposed face
70m rope required
Grade: 5.9
Length: 150 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Good To Be A Gaper
Aspect
South Facing

Good To Be A Gaper

5.9, Sport

Truckee

California ,United States

Overview

"Good To Be A Gaper delivers a long, easy climb at Big Chief that mixes crack systems with exposed, juggy face climbing. Ideal for those looking to stretch endurance with solid protection in the Truckee River Canyon."

Good To Be A Gaper: The Longest Easy Route at Big Chief

Good To Be A Gaper offers climbers seeking an extended, approachable outing at Big Chief a chance to experience varied terrain with consistent protection on solid rock. This single-pitch, 150-foot climb unfolds above The Oven in the Truckee River Canyon, California, presenting a route that moves confidently from the initial Sundance section before veering left to finish on the broad gold face, where the atmosphere is open and the exposure tangible. The route predominantly stays in the 5.7 to 5.8 range, allowing climbers to focus on movement and technique without being challenged by sustained difficulty.

Starting on good quality stone, the climb begins by following the Sundance bolts past their initial placements. Rather than continuing on Sundance's traversing line to the right, Good To Be A Gaper encourages a leftward climb towards a wide crack, where you’ll clip a highly dependable fixed hex. From here, a fluid move left across the lip of a roof gains a second crack and dihedral system. This section demands careful footwork as you stem and move left onto a juggy, exposed face that pulls your attention toward a shallow, slanting roof overhead. The crux lies in a well-protected traverse beneath this roof, where rhythm and control create space on the rock.

After surmounting the traverse, the route ascends through several cracks to reach a comfortable ledge hosting a two-bolt anchor. This ledge, a crucial rappel point, hangs roughly 35 meters above the ground. It’s imperative not to lower off anchors but to rappel with a 70-meter rope — shorter ropes risk leaving you stranded far above the base.

Gear-wise, climbers need numerous draws coupled with several long runners to manage rope drag and protect the varied terrain effectively. The climb’s character invites thoughtful gear placement, especially through the crack and roof sections, rewarding careful planning and the use of extended runners to maintain rope flow.

Beyond the technical notes, the environment envelops you in the rugged charm of the Truckee River Canyon, with the afternoon sun warming the rock and light breezes making the exposed sections feel alive. Trees dot the canyon edges, whispering with each passing gust, while distant river currents murmur below — the climb feels like a measured dialogue with the mountain’s features.

Good To Be A Gaper stands out as an ideal climb for those easing into moderate trad and sport lines while savoring the length and exposure without overwhelming difficulty. It balances a jump in vertical scale with secure protection and consistently enjoyable moves, rewarding preparation and respect for rope management.

Whether you’re dialing in lead techniques or simply want a memorable route under clean blue skies, this climb offers an accessible, well-guarded encounter with Big Chief’s rugged mountain face. Pack your 70-meter rope, plenty of quickdraws and long runners, and prepare to move steadily through an engaging mixture of crack, dihedral, and face climbing. Your arrival at the ledge anchor brings relief and an outlook across canyon walls that remind you why this spot calls climbers back year after year.

Climber Safety

Do not lower off the anchors. The rappel requires a full 70-meter rope; shorter ropes leave you hanging mid-air. The exposure on the juggy face and roof traverse demands secure placements and careful runner management to avoid rope drag or falls.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeSport
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Avoid lowering off the anchors; always rappel with a full 70m rope.

Use long runners or doubled slings to reduce rope drag on traverses and roof sections.

Keep rope ends even to prevent getting stuck mid-rappel.

Approach requires attention to detail — the route leaves Sundance’s right traverse early, so watch for the leftward line.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 with a mostly moderate feel, Good To Be A Gaper steers clearer of sustained difficulty but features one well-protected crux traverse under the roof that bumps the route’s challenge. Compared to nearby Big Chief climbs, this line offers a softer introduction with solid bolt and fixed gear anchors, making it approachable yet engaging for intermediate climbers.

Gear Requirements

Plan for a 70-meter rope to rappel safely. Bring many draws and long runners to manage rope drag — using double runners on tricky sections improves protection and rope flow. Fixed hexes are present but expect to place additional gear on cracks.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Good To Be A Gaper and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

long route
trad protection
crack climbing
roof traverse
exposed face
70m rope required