"Good Ol’ Boy threads a demanding path up Yosemite’s Camp 4 Wall, blending aid climbing with traditional crackwork tangled in grassy overgrowth. This 12-pitch route demands patience and varied protection, rewarding committed climbers with a gritty, authentic big wall adventure."
Set against the imposing backdrop of Yosemite Valley’s Camp 4 Wall, Good Ol' Boy stands as a demanding 12-pitch route that challenges climbers with a blend of traditional cracks, aid climbing, and relentless route-finding. This big wall towers quietly behind the familiar amphitheater of Camp 4, separating the adventurous from the casual visitors below.
Approaching the climb is a straightforward trek up the talus fields lining the north side of Yosemite Valley, tracing a gully system on the left that leads to a tall tree marking the start. The climb begins about 200 feet left of this sentry tree, where the rock faces thicken and the exposure settles in.
The initial pitches ease you into the experience with moderate chimney and crack climbing, weaving through bay trees and grassy ledges. Pitch one starts in a chimney behind a bay tree, ascending easy cracks (5.7) that open on the Camp 4 Balcony — a natural platform to catch your breath and take in the valley’s shifting light.
From there, the climbing grows steadily more complex. The second pitch mixes free and aid moves, requiring skillful negotiation of slabby terrain punctuated by bolts, leading to a quiet grassy corner. By pitch three, the necessity to engage aid techniques intensifies: carefully placing rivets and leveraging tricky seam movements while edging around loose blocks.
Mid-route, expect a careful balance of aid (A2 to C2 ratings) and free climbing sections, with crack systems filled with grass and shrubs demanding patience for cleaning and placement. This overgrowth complicates what could otherwise be straightforward crack climbing, turning many free sequences into aid maneuvers. These tangled vegetated cracks slow progress and test your efficiency and gear strategy.
Several pitches feature complex free-aid combinations on steep cracks and corners, including hands-and-fists jams interrupted by tricky mantels and technical aid sequences requiring solid micro cam collections and beaks. The crux pitches, especially pitch nine, feature some of the steepest and cleanest aid moves on the route that will stretch your repertoire, demanding precise placements on thin flakes and a steady nerve.
Protection is extensive and varied: expect to rely on cams ranging from finger-size to 4-inch pieces, multiple lost arrows, beaks, narrow cam hooks, and an arsenal of micro cams and tips. Anchors across the route are well-bolted, but placement cleanliness and gear variety are key for safe and efficient climbing.
The descent adds another layer of challenge. Attempting to hike off east toward Eagle Peak involves intimidating, uphill bushwhacking through thick undergrowth and vertical terrain before you finally gain the Upper Falls Trail. This rough exit stretches over six miles with 3,700 feet of elevation loss and demands careful planning for water, food, and time. The alternative—rappelling directly from fixed anchors—is often the preferred choice to avoid the punishing walk-off.
Good Ol’ Boy is not a climb for those seeking polished Yosemite classics; it’s an adventure that blends gritty aid climbing with occasional free sequences, testing your patience and persistence. Its vegetation-clogged cracks are a unique barrier against speed but also an invitation to leave your mark by cleaning out sections for future ascents before seasonal grass overtakes them again.
Prepare to face the raw aspects of Yosemite’s big wall climbing with solid aid skills, diverse protection, and leave no doubt of your commitment to embracing both the beauty and the grind. This route offers a deeply immersive big wall experience that rewards preparation and persistence with commanding valley views and the satisfaction of climbing on one of Yosemite's lesser-traveled faces.
Loose blocks, dense bushes, and vague route-finding increase risk; meticulous cleaning before climbing is essential. The hike-off features deadly bushwhacking against cliffs and steep terrain—don’t underestimate the physical toll or time required.
Clean out grassy cracks before climbing to ease progress and expedite placements.
Plan for extra time—expect slow climbing due to vegetation and aid transitions.
Rappelling off is recommended over the strenuous hike-off via Eagle Peak.
Carry plenty of water and food if hiking off—expect long, demanding travel through dense brush.
Bring cams up to 4 inches, including one each of #3 and #4, with doubles from finger to hand sizes. Essential micro cams and tips in triple sets, offsets, narrow cam hooks, and beaks in varying sizes increase efficiency. All anchors have bolts; hook moves and copperheads are unnecessary.
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