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Golden Plate: A Classic Trad Challenge on The Leaning Wall

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
trad climbing
single-pitch
steep corner
thin gear
bolted anchor
Colorado
moderate difficulty
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Golden Plate
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Golden Plate on The Leaning Wall offers an engaging single-pitch trad climb with technical cruxes and a steep corner finish. This 5.9 route combines sparse but trustworthy protection with a compelling sequence that challenges climbers to trust their gear and feet alike."

Golden Plate: A Classic Trad Challenge on The Leaning Wall

Golden Plate rises boldly on The Leaning Wall near Buena Vista, Colorado, offering a focused trad climb that tests both technique and mental grit. At a moderate 5.9, this single-pitch route stretches approximately 75 feet through a sequence of varied terrain that keeps climbers engaged from start to finish. The climb begins just above a single bolt marked at 5.10a—an optional crux for those seeking to push their limits early. From there, you move left of a distinctive slabby outcrop known locally as the "Slab Tree," before edging into a steepening corner that demands controlled footwork and confident hand placements. The rock here has a clean, textured surface with gritty edges that reward precise smearing and crimping.

Protection consists primarily of thin gear placements and a handful of bolts, including a final two-bolt anchor that assures a secure top-out. The somewhat sparse pro demands vigilance in gear placement; small cams and narrow nuts will be your friends on this climb. It's a route that encourages careful reading of the rock as much as bold climbing moves.

The Leaning Wall sits just outside Buena Vista, a gateway town known for its vibrant outdoor culture and easy access to the Arkansas River corridor. The approach to Golden Plate is straightforward—a short, well-maintained trail leads you to the base in under 20 minutes, skirting through dry scrub and occasional pine clusters. For outdoor enthusiasts, Buena Vista doubles as an ideal staging point with ample lodging, gear shops, and dining options, making it easy to combine climbing with other adventures like rafting or mountain biking.

Timing your climb on Golden Plate is key. The route faces predominantly southwest, catching morning shadows and warming in the afternoon sun. Spring and fall deliver the best climbing temperatures, avoiding the intense summer heat that can bake the rock and sap energy. Good footwear with sticky rubber is important here, especially given the slabby moves and slightly polished holds near the start.

Aside from the climb itself, the natural surroundings offer expansive views of the Sawatch Range’s rugged peaks. Listening closely, the whisper of wind through sparse trees and distant calls of hawks underscore the feeling of isolation despite the relatively short approach.

Whether this is your first trad lead or part of a series on The Leaning Wall, Golden Plate provides a balanced, memorable outing. With a solid anchor and inviting but challenging pitch, it offers a perfect progression route for climbers building trad confidence while soaking in the unique character of Colorado’s high desert environment.

Climber Safety

Protection is limited to thin gear and a couple of bolts, so assess each gear placement carefully; poorly placed protection can increase runout risk. The rock is generally sound, but stay aware of loose flakes around the slabby start section. Always double-check anchor setups at the top before lowering.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the established trail leading beneath The Leaning Wall; expect about 20 minutes from the parking area.

Ideal climbing season spans spring through fall—avoid peak summer heat for best comfort and friction.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes to manage slabby and slightly polished rock near the start.

Use small to medium-sized trad gear to protect the steep corner section safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating is generally accurate but feels slightly stiff due to a key move into the steep corner where body positioning demands precision. The route’s initial bolt at 5.10a offers an optional harder start, so those willing to skip it will find a more consistent 5.9 difficulty throughout. Climbers familiar with local moderate trad lines will find this a solid, straightforward step up in challenge without hidden surprises.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack emphasizing thin cams and small nuts, as protection placements can be narrow. There are bolts sparingly placed but rely mostly on traditional gear placements. The two-bolt anchor at the top is solid and straightforward.

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Tags

trad climbing
single-pitch
steep corner
thin gear
bolted anchor
Colorado
moderate difficulty