"Godforsaken Land offers a gritty mix of trad and aid climbing on Slhanay's rugged granite, where boulder problems, bolt ladders, and crack sections merge into a challenging five-pitch adventure. This route invites climbers who crave a technical journey off the beaten path, combining bold moves with strategic gear and tricky route-finding."
Godforsaken Land unfolds as a compelling alternative to the busier climbs in Squamish’s Slhanay area, offering a raw blend of face climbing, demanding boulder challenges, and classic crack sequences. This route demands respect—not just for its vertical commitment over five pitches, but for the complex gear dance between bolts and traditional protection. The rock here feels alive; bulges push out with stubborn difficulty, demanding precise movement and steady nerves, while cracks invite careful finger work amidst patches of moss and scrape.
The route begins with a solid 10a pitch ascending the blunt buttress on an arete, mixing strategically placed bolts with gear placements that reward careful judgment. Unlike the straightforward options nearby, the start veers left into a dirtier, runout section that tests a climber's comfort with exposure. The second pitch introduces the signature bolt ladders—vertical challenges that can be aided or, for those with the skill and grit, freed. This pitch ends near a bolted anchor tucked by a lone tree stump, offering a moment of calm before the technical demands intensify.
Pitch three escalates the tension with a crux bulge that feels bordering on 12a difficulty if freed—offering a serious test of finger strength and technique. Here, the rock forces you into tough decisions: commit to the aid ladder, or risk a runout over slabs with uncertain landings below. Moving left after the bulge leads to a layback crack that presents a slightly more forgiving rhythm, but the fall consequences make precise climbing essential.
Pitch four carries the battle through another steep bulge, again negotiable by bolt pull or free climbing. The route splits here from what could have been a clean crack and slab finish—now dirt-choked and mossy, rendering this option less appealing without dedicated cleaning and careful nut placement. Opting to navigate the main crack to a bolted belay may stretch patience with its gritty texture but ensures safer passage. Difficulty remains consistent, demanding solid crack technique mixed with slab balance.
The final pitch ventures beyond Godforsaken Land’s traditional summit, merging into the Skyline Arete. This section showcases some of the route’s best climbing—technical slab moves complemented by a tricky mantle over a bulge. The bolt line above hints at further challenges, climbing sharply into an unseen route from below. Successfully navigating this pitch offers a satisfying conclusion to an arduous climb marked by technical variety and an uncompromising rock face.
Gear selection must reflect the route’s hybrid nature: primarily bolted, but supplemented with gear for crack protection. A lighter rack suffices for those finishing on the extended pitch, though larger cams could ease the way if choosing Right Wing’s variations. Awareness of the adjacent bolted routes with black hangers is critical, as the traffic paths intertwine and protection points overlap.
Approach to Godforsaken Land is straightforward with a reasonable trail leading to the base, typical of Slhanay's accessible granite cliffs. Expect a 15-20 minute hike through forested trail, with GPS coordinates locked near 49.6945N and -123.1216W. Seasonally, climbing in late spring through early fall provides solid dry conditions, with morning shade offering respite from afternoon sun.
Safety demands respect for the dirty sections and potential rockfall from the loose, mossy slabs; fall zones can be unforgiving on upper pitches, particularly around runout slab traverses. Careful route-finding on P4 and P5 is essential to avoid unwanted dirt-choked cracks and maintain a consistent gear line.
Godforsaken Land is not for casual climbers but rewards those willing to mix aid and trad climbing with complex free moves. It stands as a gritty, compelling experience where the rock’s personality challenges each move, and every pitch tells a story of commitment and skill. Bringing patience, a sturdy rack, and a readiness for varied climbing styles will equip any adventurer to reap the full rewards of this demanding Squamish classic.
Falling on the bolt ladder pitches, particularly pitch 3, can lead to dangerous swings onto slabs or moss-covered ledges. Dirt-choked cracks on pitch 4 demand cleaning to avoid poor holds and gear placements. Loose rock and moss create potential hazards; climbers should be vigilant when stepping across slabs or moving left on upper pitches.
Approach via the well-marked Slhanay trailhead; expect a 15–20 minute hike through forest to the base.
Bring a nut tool for cleaning mossy crack sections on pitch 4 to improve holds and placements.
Consider climbing early in the day for cooler temperatures and shade on the west-facing face.
Be prepared for tricky moves off the bolt ladders, especially on pitches 2 and 3, and practice aid techniques if needed.
A primarily bolted route, but requires a light trad rack for crack protection. Larger cams may be useful if you choose to finish on the Right Wing variations. The bolt ladders can be aided or freed, with the latter significantly increasing difficulty. Anchors are bolted, though some sections are dirty and could benefit from brushing and nut tool work.
Upload your photos of Godforsaken Land and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.