HomeClimbingGod of Plunder

God of Plunder: A Rugged Trad Climb at Lover's Leap

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
trad
mossy face
roof crack
single pitch
shaded
crack climbing
protection needed
moderate difficulty
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
God of Plunder
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"God of Plunder beckons with a mossy, single-pitch trad climb tucked into Dear John Buttress at Lover’s Leap. Featuring a standout roof crack at 5.8, this gritty route tests steady gear placements and offers shaded relief from afternoon heat—ideal for focused trad climbers seeking solitude and texture."

God of Plunder: A Rugged Trad Climb at Lover's Leap

God of Plunder wages a quiet battle on the right side of the Dear John Buttress, a rugged face etched into the granite walls of Lover's Leap along California’s Highway 50 corridor. This single-pitch 75-foot route offers an honest trad climb packed with gritty, moss-laden holds and inviting twin cracks that challenge your footwork and gear placement. The climb’s signature feature—a compelling roof reminiscent of the demanding upper crux found on the nearby God of Thunder—presents a manageable 5.8 challenge, a touch of relief after the demands of its harder counterpart. Expect to engage with the climb’s textured mossy face and cobweb-speckled cracks, a reminder that this isn’t a polished sport climb but an experience shaped by nature’s raw elements.

The route’s location on Dear John Buttress means it avoids the fierce afternoon sun, maintaining cooler conditions even in warm summer months. This shaded aspect creates a quiet, often solitary ascent, where the surrounding forest breathes quietly and the occasional call of wildlife punctuates your focus. Bring a rack rich in nuts and small cams, especially sizes suited for the twin cracks leading up to the roof; this gear anchors your safety as the route offers only a single bolt early in the climb. The top of the pitch lacks solid natural anchors, which means careful planning is essential—using a directional piece and linking up with the anchor established at the top of Brother of John is the safest path.

Approaching God of Plunder requires a modest trek through Lover’s Leap’s classic granite landscape, where the forest floor crunches underfoot and patches of sunlight filter through scattered pine. The trail from the usual parking areas is straightforward but expect a brisk 10-15 minute walk over uneven terrain. This approach offers both preparation and a chance to tune your mind to the textures and sounds of this timeless granite expanse.

Climbing God of Plunder is less about flashy moves and more about steady confidence and clean gear work. The moss-covered face demands deliberate edging and smearing, lending texture that can both aid and betray if candled holds aren’t scanned carefully. The roof’s overhang dares you to hold your position, its cracks beckoning to be threaded with protective gear. This climb is a quieter companion for those seeking a trad challenge with a side of solitude and a taste of Lover’s Leap’s storied granite walls. Perfect for autumn or spring when the wall is free of snow and the weather holds steady.

When descending, climbers should be cautious; the lack of a secure top anchor requires either a careful rappel using a directional piece or a controlled walk-off to a safer rappel station nearby. The rock here, while generally solid, houses weathered patches—tread carefully to avoid loose flakes or slick moss patches, especially after recent rain.

For those planning to visit, hydration is key: the approach and climb may not demand sprint-like intensity but the focused nature of gear placement and careful footwork is dehydrating. Solid footwear with sticky rubber and good edging will give you confidence on this textured granite. Overall, God of Plunder offers a gritty climb flavored with quiet intensity, inviting climbers who prefer authentic trad routes grounded in nature’s uncompromising textures.

Climber Safety

The moss-covered holds can be slippery, especially after rain or morning dew. Also, the top of the route offers no fixed anchors, so prepare to build secure anchors using directional gear or link into nearby established anchors to avoid unsafe top-outs.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Approach takes about 10-15 minutes on uneven forest trail—wear sturdy shoes.

Climb in the morning or early afternoon to avoid any potential heat buildup.

Double-check anchors at the top; natural anchors are unreliable here.

The moss makes some holds slippery—test each grip before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated a straightforward 5.8, God of Plunder feels true to grade with a manageable but distinctive roof crux. Compared to the more intense God of Thunder (5.11c), this climb offers a softer challenge, though moss and cobwebs add subtle friction concerns that can increase effort. Reliable gear placements help balance the difficulty, making it ideal for confident 5.8 climbers seeking a classic trad test.

Gear Requirements

Bring nuts and small cams, particularly small sizes for the twin cracks under the roof. One bolt protects the early face, but gear placements dominate the route, with a .3 cam advised for the roof section. Top anchor options are limited, so plan to extend your anchor or use directional protection connecting to the Brother of John anchor.

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Tags

trad
mossy face
roof crack
single pitch
shaded
crack climbing
protection needed
moderate difficulty