"Goblin Roof delivers a tight, technical 35-foot sport climb combining slab finesse and a striking roof crux. A perfect test of balance and power on featured rock in Big Bear’s sunlit cliffs."
Perched on the rugged face of Voodoo Wall, Goblin Roof invites climbers into a compact but demanding ascent that balances bold slab moves with dynamic roof jugs. This short, single-pitch climb offers a potent challenge wrapped in just 35 feet of vertical adventure, demanding focus from the moment your hands leave the boulder base. The approach begins with a modest scramble over slick boulders, delivering you to a surprisingly roomy flat ledge that serves as both a rest point and a staging area for the push ahead. From here, the route pulls away with technical slab climbing that tests balance and footwork. The crux sits just beyond the first bolt — slick and requiring precise weight shifts while navigating a small roof feature. Once past this, the climb opens into a series of positive jugs and textured holds, allowing relief through more rhythmical, controlled moves up featured rock to the anchors above.
Starting the climb from the boulder’s left side presents an easier entry, sidestepping the hardest slab moves and lowering the overall difficulty to a friendly 5.8. This variation creates a perfect introduction for those looking to build confidence before tackling the route’s full challenge. Protection consists of four well-spaced bolts and a solid bolted anchor, making it accessible for sport climbers looking for a reliable workout in a stunning mountain setting.
Located in the Big Bear North section of the San Bernardino Mountains, the area captures classic Southern California feel — dry, sun-soaked rock with sweeping views of pine-studded ridges. Timing your climb early in the day is wise to avoid the midday heat, as the wall faces east, bathing the route in morning light before turning shade in the afternoon.
Planning your visit includes a brief but moderately rugged approach over uneven ground, with a small amount of bushwhacking on loose rock. Durable footwear and careful footing are essential. Don’t forget to carry enough water since this exposure can quickly turn the climb into a test of endurance in warmer months.
Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your slab technique or pushing into more sustained sport lines, Goblin Roof’s compact length packs a rewarding blend of balance, power, and fun. Its approachable protection and manageable length also make it a solid choice for groups or those transitioning from easier climbs to more technical challenges. The climb stands as a fine example of Big Bear’s outdoor climbing diversity — short but sharp, accessible yet testing your poise under pressure.
The approach involves loose, uneven rock and some light scrambling, so exercise caution with each step. The slab crux requires careful clipping and precise foot placement — a misstep here can risk a slip mid-exposure. Helmets are recommended due to loose stones on the approach and near the base.
Start from the left side of the boulder to avoid the slab crux if seeking an easier variation.
Begin climbs early to take advantage of morning shade and avoid afternoon heat.
Wear shoes with excellent edging to handle the delicate slab moves.
Bring plenty of water; the approach and wall exposure offer little shade in summer.
Expect four bolts plus a bolted anchor for top-roping or lowering. The protection is straightforward but requires solid clipping technique on the crux slab section where the spacing feels deliberate. A helmet is advised due to loose rock in the approach area.
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