"Goblin is a demanding 80-foot sport climb on Echo Canyon’s Saddle Up Wall that blends technical fingerwork with engaging stemming sections. Its well-protected line challenges climbers with sustained difficulty and quiet alpine surroundings."
Goblin offers a sharp jolt of technical sport climbing that’s both approachable for experienced climbers seeking sustained movement and challenging enough to test your finger strength and footwork. Situated on the Saddle Up Wall within Echo Canyon’s rugged terrain, this 80-foot route demands precise control from start to finish. From the ground, the climb begins with a left-leaning ramp reinforced by three bolts, guiding you smoothly toward a corner. Here, the rock shifts character — a blocky corner system draws you upward with a mix of stemming and delicate finger cracks that demand steady foot placement and body tension. Scuffing your shoulder against the wall becomes part of the dance as you negotiate the narrow seam. The route stretches out to a broken ledge, a brief chance to recalibrate before pushing higher into the cruxy moves that send you toward the anchor fixed to the right face.
Echo Canyon’s limestone reflects the ruggedness of Bow Valley’s wild landscape. The wall faces east, catching morning light that warms the rock before shading protects you from the midday sun, making early starts ideal. The air here carries the cool clarity of alpine forests nearby, rustling with pine needles stirred by light mountain breezes. This climb, at 5.11d, provides a stiff but fair challenge — the bolts are generous, but the movement demands body awareness and tireless precision. Gear consists of 11 bolts and a strong single-chain anchor, simplifying protection so you can focus fully on technique.
Access to the Saddle Up Wall trails through varied terrain, from dusty paths to rocky scrambles that reward careful footing and a reliable approach shoe. The route’s length and single-pitch nature make it a perfect afternoon objective, with enough challenge to leave you feeling accomplished without the commitment of multi-pitch exposure. Post-climb, descending is straightforward, using the established anchor that lets you rappel safely back to the base.
Whether you’re dialing in your sport tactics or looking to push your ability on sustained fingers and small holds, Goblin offers a focused lesson on precision in a natural setting that balances exposure and protection. Keep hydration close, arrive early for optimal conditions, and prepare to engage fully with Echo Canyon’s distinctive limestone face.
Watch for small ledges and occasional loose blocks near the broken ledge section; though protection is solid, keep focus on stable footholds and avoid relying on fragile rock during moves.
Start early to take advantage of the morning sun warming the east-facing wall.
Wear shoes with precise edging capability for stemming and finger crack sections.
Bring enough water to stay hydrated; the approach and climb are exposed to sun midday.
Use the rappel anchor at the top for a safe and efficient descent.
Climb is protected by 11 bolts leading to a solid single-chain anchor, allowing climbers to focus on movement without worrying about gear placements.
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