Adventure Collective

Goblin at Eagle Pinnacle: A Bold Trad Route Above Suicide Rock

Idyllwild-Pine Cove, California United States
trad
friction slab
runout
single pitch
California granite
r-rated
crack protection
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Goblin
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Goblin on Eagle Pinnacle offers a compact but intense trad climb, featuring a delicate friction slab with minimal protection and a runout that keeps you honest. Ideal for climbers ready to balance boldness with technique above the iconic Suicide Rock landscape."

Goblin at Eagle Pinnacle: A Bold Trad Route Above Suicide Rock

Goblin presents a compact yet demanding trad climb perched on Eagle Pinnacle, a well-known outcrop just above the bustling paths of Suicide Rock and Tahquitz. This route challenges climbers immediately with an unprotected face move rated at 5.8, positioned just to the right of the nearby Finger Lickin' Good. From this starting point, you can opt to extend the warm-up by tackling a more accessible crack farther right before confronting the steeper friction slab marked by three bolts at 5.10a difficulty. The slab demands precise footwork and confident hand placements; the rock seems to pulse underfoot, daring you to trust your balance on its slick surface.

The climb’s standout feature is its R rating, signaling serious consequences should a fall occur near the upper bolts. At the last bolt, a subtle leftward traverse leads to a two-bolt anchor, but the route's edge is sharp—the margin for error slim. For those seeking additional protection, a crack to the right offers potential gear placements, although it lies just outside the main line and requires some route-finding. This option is critical for mitigating the runout sections, especially when confidence wavers.

Set against the rugged backdrop of the San Jacinto mountains, Eagle Pinnacle commands an atmosphere both tense and thrilling. The approach to Goblin winds through sun-dappled granite boulders, and once on the wall, breezes off the nearby peaks stir a quiet chorus among the pines. The air feels charged, as if the rock itself is waiting for action, compelling climbers to engage fully with each move.

Protection on Goblin is straightforward but demands thoughtful gear selection: a handful of small cams and nuts to plug the occasional crack plus draws for the fixed bolts will suffice. The delicate balance between bolt-assisted safety and traditional placements makes it essential to understand your rack and placement skills before committing.

Timing your ascent is crucial. Morning climbs benefit from cooler temperatures and less direct sunlight on the east-facing slab, which can become slippery as the day heats up. Approaches are short but rugged, requiring sturdy footwear and awareness of loose talus near the base. Hydration is vital—this area bakes under the high desert sun during summer months, so plan accordingly.

Goblin isn’t just a climb; it’s a test of nerve and technique set on a classic granite face that refuses to indulge hesitancy. For those comfortable with runouts and ready for a technical challenge, it offers a punchy single pitch experience with a blend of friction, hand jams, and tactical reading of the rock. The reward comes in the form of crisp views over Suicide Rock’s famed spires and an intimate encounter with the raw essence of California trad climbing.

Climber Safety

The upper slab section has sparse protection and a runout that could lead to a dangerous fall. Falling here is particularly hazardous because of the exposed face moves and limited gear placements. Always assess the crack off-route for potential gear before committing to the slab.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the slab heating up and becoming slick under direct sun.

Use shoes with sensitive rubber for the friction slab moves to maximize grip.

Scout the crack right of the upper bolts before leading if you want extra gear placements.

Hydrate well and watch for loose rock near the base during the approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a R rating reflects the serious fall potential on the upper friction slab, where protection is minimal between bolts. This grade feels firm due to the technical footwork and the need for mental control to handle the runouts. Climbers familiar with moderate runout slabs in the Tahquitz and Suicide Rock area will recognize the style and risk balance similar to climbs like Finger Lickin’ Good.

Gear Requirements

Bring a small rack with nuts and cams suitable for finger to small hand cracks, plus at least 3 draws for the bolts protecting the slab section. Consider extra protection for the off-route crack on the right for additional safety.

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Tags

trad
friction slab
runout
single pitch
California granite
r-rated
crack protection