HomeClimbingGoats on the Fringe

Goats on the Fringe: A Crisp Sport Climb on Colorado's Goat Rock

Empire, Colorado United States
sport climbing
bulge
jug holds
shared anchor
short approach
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Goats on the Fringe
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Goats on the Fringe stretches 90 feet along a slightly right-leaning line on Goat Rock’s middle tier. Featuring a bulge dotted with large jugs and a shared anchor with Baaad To The Bone, this 5.8 sport climb blends approachable challenge with reliable protection in a scenic Colorado setting."

Goats on the Fringe: A Crisp Sport Climb on Colorado's Goat Rock

Goats on the Fringe beckons climbers to the rugged heart of Goat Rock, a formidable formation perched within the Empire area of Colorado. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 90 feet on the middle tier of the rock’s left flank, offering a route that leans slightly right as it ascends. Climbers are greeted early on by a distinctive bulge lined with generous jugs, inviting both novice and intermediate climbers to engage with solid handholds while testing endurance and technique. The climb moves with a steady rhythm, requiring consistent attention to footholds and body positioning to navigate the bulging section smoothly.

The route shares its anchor with its neighbor, Baaad To The Bone, making the top-out and descent straightforward and efficient. Situated at 5.8, Goats on the Fringe strikes a balance between challenge and accessibility, making it an excellent choice for those pushing their limits without venturing into technical extremes. The rock quality is dependable, sporting clean faces and well-maintained bolts that provide peace of mind throughout the ascent.

Approaching Goat Rock involves a short hike through semi-open terrain with views that hint at Colorado’s expansive wilderness beyond. The area’s characteristic granite offers firm friction on both feet and hands, encouraging climbers to trust their placements and engage fully with each move. Equipment-wise, ten quickdraws coupled with a 60-meter rope are essential to safely cover the length of the route without the need for tricky rope management.

As the sun shifts overhead, the climb enjoys partial shade in mornings and afternoons, making spring and fall ideal seasons to tackle this line before the summer heat saturates the exposed rock surfaces. Climbers should prepare for varying temperatures and ensure hydration is enough for the approach and climb. The shared anchor point not only simplifies rappelling but also serves as a gathering spot to take in the surrounding crags and forested slopes, grounding the climb in a vivid Colorado backdrop.

Goats on the Fringe demands respect without intimidating, offering a climbing experience where technique, timing, and tactical gear placement all coalesce. It’s a route that fosters confidence and skill progression in a setting that feels unexpectedly remote but remains approachable. Whether you’re testing lead skills or enjoying a crisp Colorado day on the rock, this route offers a straightforward adventure worth adding to any regional to-do list.

Climber Safety

The bulge requires focus as it can catch climbers off guard; ensure quickdraws are clipped securely and double-check rope management before the crux. The shared anchor system is solid but exposed—avoid hanging directly beneath during busy climbs.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Aim for spring or fall climbs when temperatures are milder and the rock offers optimum friction.

Bring plenty of water, especially during warmer months, as shade is limited during midday.

Use shoes with solid edging capabilities to handle slab footholds near the bulge.

Top rope is possible by using the shared anchor with Baaad To The Bone if practicing leads.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Goats on the Fringe provides a comfortably challenging pitch that stretches endurance without complex technical moves. The bulge adds a defining crux that demands careful footwork and steady grip strength, but the grade feels well-judged rather than soft. Compared to nearby climbs, it’s an accessible step up for climbers comfortable moving beyond easy terrain.

Gear Requirements

Plan on bringing ten quickdraws and a 60-meter rope to cover the entire pitch comfortably, with bolts well spaced and fixed anchors at the top.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Goats on the Fringe and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sport climbing
bulge
jug holds
shared anchor
short approach