"A four-pitch trad climb on Power Dome’s West Face that combines technical moves with runout sections. Expect solid granite, sparse protection, and a raw alpine experience in the Southern Sierra."
Go Runout and Pray offers a demanding alpine trad climb that tests both your mental grit and technical skill amidst the stark beauty of California's Southern Sierra. Situated on the West Face of Power Dome, this route slices a path between the two prominent water streaks that stain the granite, carving a route that feels both exposed and elemental. From the moment you start on a ledge just above a left-angled roof, the climb challenges you with a combination of bolt-protected moves and runouts that reward careful footwork and steady nerves.
The first pitch sets the tone with its three bolts providing security on some steep transitions, ending beneath a roof guarded by a two-bolt belay that demands focus. Moving into the second pitch, the path snakes right then left, teasing with a short right-facing corner and a roof where a single bolt guards the sequence before you climb past a dike to another one-bolt belay. This section pushes your ability to read holds and commit with confidence as protection thins.
Pitch three feels like an exploration, a wander about as you skirt leftward to a right-facing corner where a lone bolt protects an awkward stance before settling in at the belay. Finally, pitch four climbs straightforwardly but demands clean climbing technique since it holds no bolts, emphasizing solid trad placements and focus on natural features.
At roughly 550 feet spread over four pitches, the climb demands precise gear management, a steady head, and an appreciation for the rugged high-country environment. The rock is hard granite, offering reliable friction but little room for error or hesitation. The approach pulls you into a quiet wilderness near Courtright Reservoir, where the pine-scented air and the distant murmur of water contrast sharply with the intense exposure on the wall. Timing your climb to avoid afternoon thunderstorms is crucial as the Sierra weather can shift rapidly.
Adequate hydration, sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber, and a rack suited for mixed placements—ranging from small cams to mid-sized gear—will be vital. Experience with alpine terrain and runout trad lines is highly recommended before attempting this route. While the protection can feel sparse and the rating of 5.10a X suggests a serious commitment with sections of runout climbing, the sense of accomplishment after topping out on the dome’s West Face is hard-earned and deeply satisfying.
Whether you seek a testing adventure away from crowded sport crags or a brush with classic Sierra alpine trad, Go Runout and Pray offers a blend of technical climbing, exposure, and wilderness beauty that pulls you into the heart of this mountain’s character. Approach well-prepared, stay alert to the mountain’s moods, and let the route challenge your limits in the best possible way.
Protection is sparse on the upper pitches, especially the last one which has no bolts. Familiarity with placing secure traditional gear and maintaining composure during runouts is mandatory. Weather can change quickly; check forecasts closely and be prepared to retreat if conditions deteriorate. The descent involves scrambling on exposed terrain – a careful, deliberate approach is necessary.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and lightning storms common in summer.
The approach trail is rugged and steep; allow 45-60 minutes from the nearest trailhead.
Scout the initial ledge carefully to find the two water streaks that mark the route start.
Carry a lightweight rack to move efficiently while staying protected on runout sections.
Bring a standard alpine rack with small to mid-sized cams and nuts. Protection is limited and tricky in places, so prioritize gear you're confident placing in thin cracks and corners. Fixed bolts protect some moves, but expect runouts on the final pitch. Sturdy climbing shoes and a helmet are essential.
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