"Glumpies delivers a sharp trad test on North Horror Rock, blending a strenuous lieback crux with a cautious approach to loose rock. For adventurous climbers in Joshua Tree, this 40-foot route demands solid gear judgment and steady nerves."
Glumpies stands as a stark test for climbers drawn to Joshua Tree’s rugged and raw side. Located on the South and East Faces of North Horror Rock, this 40-foot trad route demands both mental grit and precise gear judgment. The initial climb features a demanding lieback crux that forces you to engage every inch of hand and footwork, while the rock’s texture grits against your fingers and attention to detail becomes a lifeline. Above the crux, the route softens, offering more manageable moves that still require steady placing and a calm mindset.
The approach to Glumpies is straightforward but requires an understanding of North Horror Rock’s complex orientation within the Hall of Horrors sector. The granite here is raw and fractured, providing unique placements yet harboring subtle hazards. The key protection challenge lies in a loose flake early on—a warning etched in the "R" rating, signaling the need for caution. Although you’ll find viable gear slots, the flake's instability heightens the risk, making solid cams essential near the base. Climbers commonly use a #3.5 or #4 Camalot at the start for reliable anchoring, with #2 to #3 devices placed judiciously higher.
North Horror Rock itself feels isolated but exposed: the surrounding desert air carries sharp winds that push against your balance, while the sun casts harsh light that shifts the wall’s character throughout the day. Early mornings bring a cool shade that eases grip fatigue, whereas afternoon heat can make friction moves more slippery and taxing. Keep an eye on weather shifts—Joshua Tree’s clear skies can flip rapidly, and dry conditions are preferable for maintaining the integrity of this delicate rock.
Glumpies is not a climb to rush into without a clear plan. The single pitch, though short, demands acute attention to every hold and placement. Its 5.9 R rating may feel bold to some; the crux stands as a notable stretch of effort where a misjudged move or a poor gear placement has consequences, lending weight beyond the numerical difficulty. Compared to other desert 5.9s, this route warns climbers to prepare for both technical moves and mental engagement with the loose flake hazard.
Gear up fully, approach with care, and allow this short yet intense route to sharpen your trad instincts. The setting in the Hall of Horrors lends a raw beauty; the granite wall watches silently as you test your nerve and skill, surrounded by stark desert scrub and the distant gaze of Joshua Tree’s iconic formations. Descending requires a smooth rappel or a cautious scramble—no shortcuts here without risk. For those willing to confront its challenges, Glumpies offers a vivid snapshot of the purity and unpredictability that defines Joshua Tree’s lesser-traveled cracks.
Beware the loose flake at the crux; it demands careful gear placement and a solid helmet. Avoid pulling directly on uncertain holds and test all placements before committing. The route’s short length and sparse protection require climbers to be confident and precise.
Use a helmet due to loose flakes near the crux.
Begin climbs early to avoid afternoon heat affecting friction.
Double-check all gear placements around the flake; the rock can shift unexpectedly.
Bring a lightweight rack focused on sizes #2 to #4 Camalots.
Start with a large camalot (#3.5 or #4) to secure the base anchor before moving up. Above the crux, smaller cams between #2 and #3 provide critical protection, but note the loose flake that compromises placements and demands cautious judgment.
Upload your photos of Glumpies and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.